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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I drove my 2016 Chrysler 200 on a Wednesday night around 8 PM, was fine, no troubles. Came out the next morning, car will not turn over, won’t even try to turn over. Check engine light also on, put not pulling any codes for me to look into. I was able to jump it right away and get it started. Took it over to an auto parts store, they said my battery was good. Didn’t start the next day, again didn’t even try. Jumped it and went to a body shop, (now check engine light is off) who couldn’t get me in but said he would look under the hood, tightened the cables around my battery and said that might fix the problem since the battery is good. Went out to use my car 4 hours later and it will not turn over again, it did try a bit, but now the engine light and parking brake light are on, and it’s tell me to “check the service brake” on my control panel. I do not want to bring this to my dealership, they’ll rip me off in a heart beat, I’m going to make an appointment at the shop that helped me today. Any ideas?
 

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2016 Chrysler 200 S, 1998 Sebring JX
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Welcome to the forum. If a 'ck eng' light comes on a fault code really should be stored (for 40 or so starts), even if the light goes back off. The 'ck eng' light going out just means that the code is no longer active, but kept in memory (even if the battery goes dead).
This may need interrogation by a more capable scan tool instead of from a generic OBD2 engine code reader.
The EPB (electronic parking brake) module can also store fault codes, but needs a more capable scan tool as these are more 'manufacturer-specific' body/chassis codes and not the universal engine/emission OBD2 codes.

From your symptoms, any fault codes may be 'low-voltage' codes since you have had to jump-start the car. Carry a set of jumper cables with you for now.
Most auto parts stores can do a free comprehensive starting/charging/draw test out in the parking lot if they aren't too busy at the counter.
Batteries can be 'bad' intermittently. How old is it? If it discharges in 4 hours or so, something may be staying on and drawing it down?

Corrosion can hide, unseen between the battery terminals & battery posts. Best to remove them completely, wire brush & reinstall them. Depending on which radio you have, you may have to reset the clock. Corrosion can occur on a 7 year-old car at grounds and power connections. The dash charging voltage readout should display about 14 volts with the engine running.
Let us know what you find.

There shouldn't be much of a voltage drop between these 2 points. Look for hidden corrosion if you do:
Audio equipment Gas Automotive lighting Electrical wiring Engineering

If the lamp glows when in series with the battery, the car is drawing current:
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Gas Cable

Check grounds G905A, G906A & G907A. Must be clean & snug at the sheetmetal attaching screw:
Sleeve Line Rectangle Font Screenshot


Slope Water Engineering Parallel Font
 

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I drove my 2016 Chrysler 200 on a Wednesday night around 8 PM, was fine, no troubles. Came out the next morning, car will not turn over, won’t even try to turn over. Check engine light also on, put not pulling any codes for me to look into. I was able to jump it right away and get it started. Took it over to an auto parts store, they said my battery was good. Didn’t start the next day, again didn’t even try. Jumped it and went to a body shop, (now check engine light is off) who couldn’t get me in but said he would look under the hood, tightened the cables around my battery and said that might fix the problem since the battery is good. Went out to use my car 4 hours later and it will not turn over again, it did try a bit, but now the engine light and parking brake light are on, and it’s tell me to “check the service brake” on my control panel. I do not want to bring this to my dealership, they’ll rip me off in a heart beat, I’m going to make an appointment at the shop that helped me today. Any ideas?
The battery is not good !
Replace that battery with a new high quality unit.
All the function lights come on with a low battery. Don't trust that auto parts store that said the battery is good. It's not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Welcome to the forum. If a 'ck eng' light comes on a fault code really should be stored (for 40 or so starts), even if the light goes back off. The 'ck eng' light going out just means that the code is no longer active, but kept in memory (even if the battery goes dead).
This may need interrogation by a more capable scan tool instead of from a generic OBD2 engine code reader.
The EPB (electronic parking brake) module can also store fault codes, but needs a more capable scan tool as these are more 'manufacturer-specific' body/chassis codes and not the universal engine/emission OBD2 codes.

From your symptoms, any fault codes may be 'low-voltage' codes since you have had to jump-start the car. Carry a set of jumper cables with you for now.
Most auto parts stores can do a free comprehensive starting/charging/draw test out in the parking lot if they aren't too busy at the counter.
Batteries can be 'bad' intermittently. How old is it? If it discharges in 4 hours or so, something may be staying on and drawing it down?

Corrosion can hide, unseen between the battery terminals & battery posts. Best to remove them completely, wire brush & reinstall them. Depending on which radio you have, you may have to reset the clock. Corrosion can occur on a 7 year-old car at grounds and power connections. The dash charging voltage readout should display about 14 volts with the engine running.
Let us know what you find.

There shouldn't be much of a voltage drop between these 2 points. Look for hidden corrosion if you do:
View attachment 59259
If the lamp glows when in series with the battery, the car is drawing current:
View attachment 59260
Check grounds G905A, G906A & G907A. Must be clean & snug at the sheetmetal attaching screw:
View attachment 59261

View attachment 59262
Nothing is on to draw it out, I usually have my lights on automatic, I shut it off just in case, and my car will automatically shut off lights inside even if I did leave them on
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The battery is not good !
Replace that battery with a new high quality unit.
All the function lights come on with a low battery. Don't trust that auto parts store that said the battery is good. It's not.
I’ll go to a different place today to check it out, is there a different way to see if it’s good, or could they have hooked it up wrong? They just used like jumper cable things and it comes up with “good” or “bad” on the machine.
 

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I’ll go to a different place today to check it out, is there a different way to see if it’s good, or could they have hooked it up wrong? They just used like jumper cable things and it comes up with “good” or “bad” on the machine.
Most times the "test" for a battery will only show that it can hold a charge and has power at the time of the test. Not that it has sufficient power to run your vehicle. ( They didn't do the test wrong. )
These newer models require a fully charged battery that hasn't been weakened over time.
If your battery is more then 3 years old, replace it.

My wife drove our 200 for the first 6 years. One time after she drove 45 miles to work, she sat in the parking lot listening to the radio and entertaining herself before she went inside. When it was time to go, she hit power window button and nothing happened. The car wouldn't start and all those pesky idiot lights came on. ( After driving 45 miles with no problem !! )
I went to the auto parts store, bought the best OEM style battery they had and then drove to her job. I installed the battery and the car started fine.
Yes, the idiot lights will stay on for some time until the vehicle recycles itself, usually after 3 start and stop cycles.
 

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2016 Chrysler 200 S, 1998 Sebring JX
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A good test to see how much of the battery life is left, is the CCA (or cold cranking amps) test.
New batteries may exceed the CCA rating on the battery label. If the actual CCA measures less than the rating, a replacement battery is in order.

If the car starts right up after sitting for a few minutes after shutting it off, let the car sit for awhile longer before testing it. Otherwise it may consistently (and inaccurately) pass the test (the discharged condition must be present in order to fail its test).
A 'surface' charge has to be dissipated before testing, otherwise the test results are invalid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Most times the "test" for a battery will only show that it can hold a charge and has power at the time of the test. Not that it has sufficient power to run your vehicle. ( They didn't do the test wrong. )
These newer models require a fully charged battery that hasn't been weakened over time.
If your battery is more then 3 years old, replace it.

My wife drove our 200 for the first 6 years. One time after she drove 45 miles to work, she sat in the parking lot listening to the radio and entertaining herself before she went inside. When it was time to go, she hit power window button and nothing happened. The car wouldn't start and all those pesky idiot lights came on. ( After driving 45 miles with no problem !! )
I went to the auto parts store, bought the best OEM style battery they had and then drove to her job. I installed the battery and the car started fine.
Yes, the idiot lights will stay on for some time until the vehicle recycles itself, usually after 3 start and stop cycles.
I've had the car for 4 years, so I will replace it and see if that works (hopefully, fingers crossed). When it goes on, it cycles through the lights as normal, but then says "service parking brake" with the parking light and the stability control light was also on, check engine light, which turned off last time, and then the battery light came on, which usually tells me just the battery is working. I jumped the battery and brought it to auto parts to test, turned off the car and it tested good, is that just because it had a charge at the time? It turned on right after that, and then died again a few hours later.
 

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I've had the car for 4 years, so I will replace it and see if that works (hopefully, fingers crossed). When it goes on, it cycles through the lights as normal, but then says "service parking brake" with the parking light and the stability control light was also on, check engine light, which turned off last time, and then the battery light came on, which usually tells me just the battery is working. I jumped the battery and brought it to auto parts to test, turned off the car and it tested good, is that just because it had a charge at the time? It turned on right after that, and then died again a few hours later.
If your battery is four years old, or older, it's past time to replace it.
All the service lights you see do come on with a low battery.
They will disappear after a few restarts to clear the system.
Also, the battery light coming on does not tell you the battery is working.
It's meant to show something is wrong, or that the charging system isn't working properly.
The answer to your last question is yes. That alone tells me the battery is gone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
If your battery is four years old, or older, it's past time to replace it.
All the service lights you see do come on with a low battery.
They will disappear after a few restarts to clear the system.
Also, the battery light coming on does not tell you the battery is working.
It's meant to show something is wrong, or that the charging system isn't working properly.
The answer to your last question is yes. That alone tells me the battery is gone.
Usually if it’s JUST the battery and not the whole car on, that light pops up, basically telling me the battery is on, I know if it comes in any other time it means it’s not working. I changed the battery today, let it sit for about 5-6 hours and it turned over! It was a little slow and sad, but it worked, so thank you a million times over!! Hopefully it stays that way and it was simply just the battery!!
 
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