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I got tired of honey-do's this weekend so I fiddled. Here's the photo-essay of what I did. The dealer wants $49.99 to do stock filter, so I drove around a few miles with nothing on (took airbox off) and liked the sound. Decided it was time to set something up. I don't have any expectation that it actually produced any power gains, but sure sounds nice. If there's any cold air getting to it directly with the gasket around the front of the hood it's coming through the tiny gap between headlight and hood. The OEM airbox snorkel space also has an opening in the gasket that doesn't hit it directly but at freeway speeds may help. Who knows. It really needs some insulation wrap like some of you have done. But I'm thinking I may also see if I can route it down to the little "pocket" below the battery in the lower valance. If I didn't have to do too many 90 degree bends I think that would be ideal for picking up cold air and then protect from splash and wrap the tract with insulation/heat reflecting material. We'll see. This was less than dealer doing filter and it sounds great so...it's not one of my best performance tweaks but will be fun next to Prius on the road.

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Used this Mr. Gasket grommet, drilled a 1 1/4 hole in ABS Sewer pipe to seat it.
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Here's a 3/4 to 3/4 fitting from Napa. Haven't quite pushed it all the way into the bypass hose so you can see what it looks like.
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Here's the "Pocket" I'm thinking of using at some point--below fan, to the right, under battery, behind the lower bumper valance. It almost looks like it was made for the part. Only problem is I have only about 2.5 to 3 inches of space to go down in front of the transmission. I don't think I can squeeze a 3" ABS sewer pipe there with out it eventually getting squished so I'd need something a little more custom...like square tubing/pipe.
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Here's that bypass air tube fitting pressed into the Mr. Gasket grommet and into the hose. Notice I didn't push it all the way into the intake track grommet. It's tight enough and I didn't want to interrupt airflow that much. (Psychological thing, I know.)
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Couple shots of the intake in place. Used a Spectre because had various sizes included for fitting. This one was a little larger single cone from Autozone for 24.99. I then used a 3" Black ABS Sewer Pip for the Spectre to fit on. Then stepped up to 4" outside diameter with the Slip-Slip joint for 3" Sewer pipe. Painted all pipe with some Chrome Paint I had laying around. I like ABS pipe for several reasons: 1) cheaper than a polished or chrome pipe; 2) easier to cut/shape than steel; 3) doesn't absorb heat nearly as much as steel/chromed pieces. Note that you could easy cut this with any chop saw you have on hand and make it any length you want.
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If you like the engine cover on, here's what it looks like...took a swipe or two at the dust, but ultimately left it for the photo. When you drive almost 1000 miles a week it gets dusty quickly.


Yeah...I know this doesn't really do anything for me. But man--even though I don't normally work about intake sounds--it really does sound nice under load on the road. Doesn't sound like much of anything without load on the car or at cruising, etc., so no sense in recording it. Perhaps this will tide me over for a month or two while I patiently wait on the first midnight drags of the season.
 

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looks nice. I was going to do that but when I opened the hood while both fans were on and the car was hot I noticed that there was a lot of hot air. so I modified the air box to take a cone filter ill post a picture later. but what you did looks better than what I was going to do lol. nice job
 
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Thanks! I'll take that compliment on the appearance.

I do really think at some point I'll route it down low to pick up cooler air and insulate it as others have done along all the pipes. Won't look as nice that way, but then I suppose it will be more functional. I would use Sewer Pipe and joints again to do it if I can because it really does help keep some of that heat away that you were talking about. I noticed it too. Just a short drive around the block and pop the hood--you'd better stand back it's so warm (even in 50 degree weather this weekend.) However, I drove it around for 20 minutes, mostly to listen to it above 3000 RPM under load, and pulled in, shut off, went straight under the hood and put my hand on the pipe. With air moving around while traveling, and with that non-metallic pipe, I could very comfortably wrap my hands around it. I would guess it was 80-95 degrees or so. Again on a 55 degree day.

My work has a thermal imaging gun. I'm going to see if I can borrow it for the weekend. I know there's some way to record images with it, but at worst I'll have someone record my doings with my iPhone or something.

P.
 

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I keep forgetting to grab the thermal imaging gun. I'm going over to our lab wharehouse right now to grab it. See if I can post anything intriguing tonight or tomorrow.
 

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I keep forgetting to grab the thermal imaging gun. I'm going over to our lab wharehouse right now to grab it. See if I can post anything intriguing tonight or tomorrow.
Doesn't your trinity display intake air temp? Even my torque app on my andriod phone does that.
 

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Doesn't your trinity display intake air temp? Even my torque app on my andriod phone does that.
Yes, but I want to "see" where the hotspots and the flow are. Maybe I can devise a better way to draw in cold air without a lot of finagling. I'm thinking instead of put my cone way down low behind bumper, just make a tube "scoop" down there that redirects air up at the cone and the pipe directly behind it. We'll see. Mostly I guess I'm just curious to watch and see where the hotspots and just how hot they are.

I have it in hand right now. Hope to have my daughter video and will post.
 

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Here's a for-fun look at the heat in the compartment. Sorry not too terribly clear at times because of reflection on the thermal imager screen, but it's very interesting to me that the cone was quite a bit cooler than most of the rest of the parts in the compartment and the pipe itself was absolutely frigid in 44 degrees ambient.

http://youtu.be/XBrnXS_cnXA
 

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Here's a for-fun look at the heat in the compartment. Sorry not too terribly clear at times because of reflection on the thermal imager screen, but it's very interesting to me that the cone was quite a bit cooler than most of the rest of the parts in the compartment and the pipe itself was absolutely frigid in 44 degrees ambient.

http://youtu.be/XBrnXS_cnXA
Very nice review. I do believe that, if you search on this forum, you will find another thread that covered engine temps in certain areas. I think it was this forum, I frequent too many, that someone was gathering the same type of information for their own modified CAI project. I think they were using a laser thermometer to point out specific areas. I think the only thing you need to add would be a thermal break between the filter and the transaxle/back side of the block. Like the Mopar setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Very nice review. I do believe that, if you search on this forum, you will find another thread that covered engine temps in certain areas. I think it was this forum, I frequent too many, that someone was gathering the same type of information for their own modified CAI project. I think they were using a laser thermometer to point out specific areas. I think the only thing you need to add would be a thermal break between the filter and the transaxle/back side of the block. Like the Mopar setup.
my suspicion after looking at it, is that would help at low speeds and idle (or at stage/prestage ;) ) but at speed I don't think the tranny area and below is doing much. I think it's gulping most of its air directly from the radiator. (There's probably a nasty swirling of air in that pocket I created when I removed the airbox.)

I think the best thing I could do is build a box that narrowly missed any feed from through the radiator and caught it all through the gasket "gap" where the original Airbox snorkel was. If I could do that, and insulate the box like everyone's talked about, I think I would be, in a sense, ram-cooling the area where the cone resides.

But we'll see. Not a priority for me. One the reasons I built the super cheap setup here is I wouldn't mind scratching it when I start playing with turbo/super.


Man these conversations are driving me nuts...I'm trying not to check the forum, but everytime I do I think...I wanna get going on that forced induction. Thanks a lot guys. You're getting me in trouble with my wife.
 

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I noticed this weekend the thing is flopping around too much now that it's been there and I've hit bumps and such. So...made a bracket. Also decided to aim it more towards the OEM airbox snorkel "hole" in the gasket. At speed this should aim some nice cool air right at it.

photo 1.jpg photo 2.jpg photo 3.jpg
 

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I noticed this weekend the thing is flopping around too much now that it's been there and I've hit bumps and such. So...made a bracket. Also decided to aim it more towards the OEM airbox snorkel "hole" in the gasket. At speed this should aim some nice cool air right at it.

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What are the dimensions of the filter. I want to compare it to the Mopar filter. It would be good to know how the over all filter media size in (sq inches) compares to what Mopar is using. Also what is the ID of the filter opening on the snorkel side?
 

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The inside diameter to snorkel is adjustable. I think from 2.5 all the way to 4.5. It has rubber rings to make that up and you just take out however many you need and then clamping down holds it good and tight. I think I still have the box in the mess of my garage so I'll see if it has Surface Area or other measurements on it before I go about making a bunch of measurements. I think it had a CFM rating on it and I decided the next size down was too small at the time. My thought was: 750 Holley on my Camaro to make 400-ish, 300 cfm I was going for on my neons when I was opening up throttle body and running a cam and such. I think I was trying to split the difference and the smaller one was only 300 cfm or so.
 

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