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100k.png
This is a real shot, what are the chances I pull in the garage and shut it off and it's exactly at 100K miles?

I would/should have changed my plugs at 50K miles if I would have known. I have never had a vehicle with plugs that looked this bad at 100K miles. I replaced them with OEM Champion plugs. I might have picked a different brand if I would have pulled the old ones out first. Here's #2,4 and 6 next to the new ones.

246plugs.jpg


Look at CLY 5's plug (next to another random old one), electrode is worn almost all the way off, it's actually still there but nearly flush. I don't know how it wasn't throwing a code, running rough/misfiring.

electrode.png



I did clean my injectors while I had it all apart, not just for the sake of cleaning, although I am glad I did cause they were in fact very dirty, but I pulled them because injector #6 was stuck open.

Long story short it threw codes P0306, P0206 and P219B.
I moved coil 6 to 1, cleared codes, a few miles later same codes appeared again.

I replaced injector #6 and cleaned the rest of them - they were pretty dirty. I will snap a picture of the bad one later.

So odd I never got a P0305 code...
 

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View attachment 54410
This is a real shot, what are the chances I pull in the garage and shut it off and it's exactly at 100K miles?

I would/should have changed my plugs at 50K miles if I would have known. I have never had a vehicle with plugs that looked this bad at 100K miles. I replaced them with OEM Champion plugs. I might have picked a different brand if I would have pulled the old ones out first. Here's #2,4 and 6 next to the new ones.

View attachment 54412


Look at CLY 5's plug (next to another random old one), electrode is worn almost all the way off, it's actually still there but nearly flush. I don't know how it wasn't throwing a code, running rough/misfiring.

View attachment 54414



I did clean my injectors while I had it all apart, not just for the sake of cleaning, although I am glad I did cause they were in fact very dirty, but I pulled them because injector #6 was stuck open.

Long story short it threw codes P0306, P0206 and P219B.
I moved coil 6 to 1, cleared codes, a few miles later same codes appeared again.

I replaced injector #6 and cleaned the rest of them - they were pretty dirty. I will snap a picture of the bad one later.

So odd I never got a P0305 code...
Good gawd man, that electrode is gone. I'm glad I pulled my plugs when I did my lower intake, I'll have to remember to throw the gap gauge on the old ones to see how far gone my electrodes were but they were all still visible. No wonder you were having coil issues lol. That sucks about your injector, it's no wonder DI is unpopular with the state of the gasoline available.
 

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After changing the plugs in our 200 recently, I'll have to agree with Black Knight. These plugs should be changed earlier.
Mine looked similar with the worn burnt electrode hardly left. Even though I have the 2.4 tigershark, leaving plugs in for 100K is too long.
The cost of the new plugs and the minimal effort to change them will result in a smoother, better running engine.
My wife said her car runs better, especially when first started cold ! If she notices, then it must be a big difference.
 

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View attachment 54410
This is a real shot, what are the chances I pull in the garage and shut it off and it's exactly at 100K miles?

I would/should have changed my plugs at 50K miles if I would have known. I have never had a vehicle with plugs that looked this bad at 100K miles. I replaced them with OEM Champion plugs. I might have picked a different brand if I would have pulled the old ones out first. Here's #2,4 and 6 next to the new ones.

View attachment 54412


Look at CLY 5's plug (next to another random old one), electrode is worn almost all the way off, it's actually still there but nearly flush. I don't know how it wasn't throwing a code, running rough/misfiring.

View attachment 54414



I did clean my injectors while I had it all apart, not just for the sake of cleaning, although I am glad I did cause they were in fact very dirty, but I pulled them because injector #6 was stuck open.

Long story short it threw codes P0306, P0206 and P219B.
I moved coil 6 to 1, cleared codes, a few miles later same codes appeared again.

I replaced injector #6 and cleaned the rest of them - they were pretty dirty. I will snap a picture of the bad one later.

So odd I never got a P0305 code...
I checked the platinum plugs in my wife's 2012 200 (2.4L) at about 60K and they looked like new. It now has 78K and runs like new. She has the PZEV engine.
But I bought a 2011 Chrysler 200 (2.4L) last fall, with the non-PZEV engine. It has regular copper plugs that are required to be changed every 32K miles. The car had 95K miles on it, and ran fine, except on slight hills, when it would skip in 6th gear, and then when it downshifted, ran fine and had good power.
I pulled the plugs and the center electrode was almost gone. The gap had to be at least .070 or more. Yet it ran fine except for that one condition, and got combined 29 mpg city/highway. I'm convinced that they were the original plugs. Can't believe it started, let alone ran well.
 

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Yikes!... Was gonna do the PUG lower and plugs next year around 75k but after seeing this, will prob do sooner. Manual says change at 65k and looks like they got that right! Any suggestions on better than O.E./ high performance plugs??
 

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Yikes!... Was gonna do the PUG lower and plugs next year around 75k but after seeing this, will prob do sooner. Manual says change at 65k and looks like they got that right! Any suggestions on better than O.E./ high performance plugs??
Owners manual says replace spark plugs at 100K.
However, several of us have said the plugs were well worn and could ( or should ) be replaced sooner.
 

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Owners manual says replace spark plugs at 100K.
However, several of us have said the plugs were well worn and could ( or should ) be replaced sooner.
Ok...thought it said 65k I'll double check. Either way I take back what I said....they're way off!
 

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Black Knight;6424 I did clean my injectors while I had it all apart said:
So for those of us whom are either not as capable or just don't have the time to clean our injectors like this, would you say that a simpler fuel injection cleaning fluid bought at local auto store would clean these well enough? Or were they so bad that it required pulling? Thanks! I've been debating either buying fuel injector cleaner to put in the fuel or to pay the dealer to do this since they recommended it about a year ago. No codes or issue with my 200 running. Figured dealer was just up-selling.
 

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I have never used a FI cleaner on any car, never had to. Three of them have gone over 240K miles, one to 308K miles, all ran like new. Are you using a good, brand name gasoline all the time, or a discount gas? A good detergent gasoline should prevent any service for injectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So for those of us whom are either not as capable or just don't have the time to clean our injectors like this, would you say that a simpler fuel injection cleaning fluid bought at local auto store would clean these well enough? Or were they so bad that it required pulling? Thanks! I've been debating either buying fuel injector cleaner to put in the fuel or to pay the dealer to do this since they recommended it about a year ago. No codes or issue with my 200 running. Figured dealer was just up-selling.
I noticed after the maintenance my performance improved and so did fuel economy, before I was getting average ~22MPG on gasoline (E85 ~18MPG), so far averaging 25MPG now and it noticeably has more power - I drive quite a bit so it's been long enough to tell the fuel economy. The faulty injector was faulty, the fact that it was dirty I don't think had anything to do with it, because they all looked the same - something inside the injector was broken etc... I am just glad it wasn't the wiring to the injector - P0206 code is fuel injector 6 circuit stuck open.

I thought my "butt dynometer" was pretty accurate, but gradual performance degradation is so gradual, most people including me wouldn't notice their fuel injectors getting dirty or spark plugs wearing out "it still runs smooth/fine/powerful".

If you run fuel injector cleaner in the tank, and I would - I highly recommend BG 44K. It actually works and has great reviews. It's expensive compared to other things that claim to work, and it can be hard to find locally, and you have to use it as directed and not spill it on your paint etc... but it works very well. Also, no need to use it very often, maybe every 30K miles or so.

I keep forgetting to take a picture of the fuel injector - I will try and remember to post it here tonight.
 

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So for those of us whom are either not as capable or just don't have the time to clean our injectors like this, would you say that a simpler fuel injection cleaning fluid bought at local auto store would clean these well enough? Or were they so bad that it required pulling? Thanks! I've been debating either buying fuel injector cleaner to put in the fuel or to pay the dealer to do this since they recommended it about a year ago. No codes or issue with my 200 running. Figured dealer was just up-selling.

They looked worse in person but here was the defective one - and it wasn't defective because it was dirty. The dirt on the sides aren't an issue since it only sprays out of the nozzle. I think I actually wiped off the nozzle by hand a little when I was handling it.


injectorside.JPG injectorface.JPG
 

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WnngSThaAMs

I've been putting off changing the spark plugs. I'm at 97,000. Can't wait to compare pictures and see if my plugs look like yours. I am curious if living in a different part of the country with different gas and humidity will make a difference. Many years ago I used to replace copper plugs with bosch platinum and they always lost parts of the electrodes just like in your picture. I was convinced that if an engine was running good there was no benefit to paying more for platinum since the copper plugs don't really do that. I recently replaced my copper plugs in my 2001 Dodge Durango at 173,000 miles and although the electrodes were obviously worn out they were clean as a whistle and had been ran for around 100,000 miles. I just goes to show that the "high performance" parts are not always what they claim to be.

I posted a video of spark plug and intake manifold replacement. I noticed that they commented that their 1/4 mile time improved by 1/2 second by changing the intake manifold and throttle body. That is hilarious. I'll save my money. The guy also said he was running nitros so I am wondering if that is why his spark plugs looked so bad. Anyway, when I get my spark plugs out it will be interesting to see if they are corroded. I've never burned E85 since it isn't even available where I live.

I've wondered if the more "European" looking 200 is detuned since those guys are always in search of more power. Ha. I have to keep the foot out of my 13' for fear burning off the front rubber to quickly. It's actually been a challenge to find rubber that doesn't slip when taking off from a stop light on an incline. I still have factory brakes at 97,000 miles. I've decided to replace pads and rotors when they are finally finished off. Cheers
 

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Just my 2 cents - platinum plug gaps can be adjusted as per manufacturers' websites and my own experience. (Common myth is that you can't.)
My recommendation: check, and if any doubt, gap and replace. Cheap really, compared to a single tank of gas. Air filter too.
 

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View attachment 54410
This is a real shot, what are the chances I pull in the garage and shut it off and it's exactly at 100K miles?

I would/should have changed my plugs at 50K miles if I would have known. I have never had a vehicle with plugs that looked this bad at 100K miles. I replaced them with OEM Champion plugs. I might have picked a different brand if I would have pulled the old ones out first. Here's #2,4 and 6 next to the new ones.

View attachment 54412


Look at CLY 5's plug (next to another random old one), electrode is worn almost all the way off, it's actually still there but nearly flush. I don't know how it wasn't throwing a code, running rough/misfiring.

View attachment 54414



I did clean my injectors while I had it all apart, not just for the sake of cleaning, although I am glad I did cause they were in fact very dirty, but I pulled them because injector #6 was stuck open.

Long story short it threw codes P0306, P0206 and P219B.
I moved coil 6 to 1, cleared codes, a few miles later same codes appeared again.

I replaced injector #6 and cleaned the rest of them - they were pretty dirty. I will snap a picture of the bad one later.

So odd I never got a P0305 code...
Do I remember you spraying N2O in that beast back in the day?
 

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Do I remember you spraying N2O in that beast back in the day?
LOL no that wasn't me. I have never used that on any vehicle I have ever owned. Maybe "RED91RT"?

Thanks to you and a few other members that have been on here a long time - I did "spray" E85 previously having been skeptical of it. :)
 

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After reading in a recent thread about plugs being worn at 50k miles I ordered some NGK LFR5AIX-11 4469 Iridiums off of ebay... Got 4 for $14.50 with free shipping for my TigerShark I4...

I stay away from Champion plugs after seeing them break the porcelain insulators on my KIA Spectras (these were OEM originals)...The porcelain fell down over the electrodes... They caused all kinds of intermittent strange P030x misfires... Replaced them with NGKs and no more problems...


So at 47k miles I'll pull and replace the originals...
Dave
 

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LOL no that wasn't me. I have never used that on any vehicle I have ever owned. Maybe "RED91RT"?

Thanks to you and a few other members that have been on here a long time - I did "spray" E85 previously having been skeptical of it. :)
I think maybe it was RED that did that.... Yeah I have not really contributed much in the past year. Have been really busy at home and with the business. Glad to see you are still around!
 

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Glad to see you are still around!
Vice-versa glad to still see you here :)

You and the old crew helped me out a great deal with my 200's!
 

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Just changed mine at 300 miles short of 100,000 miles on my 13' 3.6 . They were Champion OEM plugs. They did their job. I am satisfied. This engine has never had E85 run through it and I use 85 octane fuel. The job took 1 hr 20 min since I was showing my son how to do it. Basically a 30-45 min job. I used my magnetic spark plug socket set from Matco. So much nicer than the old spark plug sockets with the rubber insert. I bought the NGK Laser Iridium plugs from AutoZone for no other reason than they were the only plugs where they had six in stock and I had a credit balance there. LOL. If anyone is still left around this forum at 200,000 miles I'll post an update on the NGK. LOL . Still running original brake pads. Great car!
 

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