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My 2011 Limited has a strut tower brace, as does my wife's 2012 Touring. Isn't this a standard feature?
it is... I had never seen a 2015 200 super S - only the previous gen (11'-14') I thought had a "Super S"
 

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I installed it on my 2015.
It fits perfectly.
Thanks. So what's necessary for the rear mounting bolt. On mine there is what looks to be a square plastic plug in the hole. Does this just pop out and the bolt fits through the same hole? DSCN0453_LI (2).jpg
 

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Thanks. So what's necessary for the rear mounting bolt. On mine there is what looks to be a square plastic plug in the hole. Does this just pop out and the bolt fits through the same hole? View attachment 56548
I believe so. I had a cover on mine.
 

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Thanks a lot for the helpful photos. Very glad you posted them as unfortunately for me it looks like there was a significant change in the strut tower configuration between my early MY 2015 build and yours. On mine instead of the plastic cover there is a raised steel structure which I don't think would allow the flat bar mount flange to mate flush with the unibody.
 

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Thanks a lot for the helpful photos. Very glad you posted them as unfortunately for me it looks like there was a significant change in the strut tower configuration between my early MY 2015 build and yours. On mine instead of the plastic cover there is a raised steel structure which I don't think would allow the flat bar mount flange to mate flush with the unibody.
:oops: I take it back. I have the same plastic cover pieces as you (and everyone else). I took another look under better light and checked with a magnet. With "granite crystal" paint on them they just look like steel . :cool:

So can they be removed without breaking them apart?

And have you noticed much handling improvement?

Thanks!
 

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:oops: I take it back. I have the same plastic cover pieces as you (and everyone else). I took another look under better light and checked with a magnet. With "granite crystal" paint on them they just look like steel . :cool:

So can they be removed without breaking them apart?

And have you noticed much handling improvement?

Thanks!
Yes...slowly pry up on them since they are glued on. The tab that slips over the inner sheet metal will bend and you can get it off.
Grab some "goo gone " from the store . Not gonna lie , removing the glue is a bitch .

Yes. You can feel a huge difference .
 

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Since I intended to discard the plastic pieces, I pried them up and they broke. No biggie. Scraped off a bunch of the adhesive - most is covered up by the bracket. The trickiest part was getting the nut on the front bolts. There was a protruding rubber gasket sort of in the way, plus it was impossible to work my hand up underneath the bolt while keeping the nut at my fingertips. Ended up taking some Gorilla tape folded into a loop and stuck the loop on my fingertip and placed the nut on the sticky tape. This enabled me to work my fingers to the bolt and kept the nut in position. Withdrew bolt so it barely stuck through, managed to get nut on it and then spun the bolt from the top until the threads caught. At least I was impressed.
 

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Since I intended to discard the plastic pieces, I pried them up and they broke. No biggie. Scraped off a bunch of the adhesive - most is covered up by the bracket. The trickiest part was getting the nut on the front bolts. There was a protruding rubber gasket sort of in the way, plus it was impossible to work my hand up underneath the bolt while keeping the nut at my fingertips. Ended up taking some Gorilla tape folded into a loop and stuck the loop on my fingertip and placed the nut on the sticky tape. This enabled me to work my fingers to the bolt and kept the nut in position. Withdrew bolt so it barely stuck through, managed to get nut on it and then spun the bolt from the top until the threads caught. At least I was impressed.
Thanks for the additional info.

My preference, whenever I can with a mod, is to be able to undo it back to stock. My bar will be delivered early next week. Today I got a head start on removing the plastic caps.

I used a heat gun to warm up the metal around the cap and then gradually pried it loose around the circumference with nylon trim removal tools. Heating the adhesive directly after the cap was removed allowed a lot of it to be easily scraped off with the trim tool. I heated for about 45 seconds for each attempt, which got the steel up to between 150° and 190°. It was only 42° in my garage so the rest of the uni-body was also that cold and the adhesive would only stay soft for half a minute. This would be an easier job in warmer weather or a heated work space.

IMG_20191101_131224547.jpg IMG_20191101_131211630.jpg IMG_20191101_143720783.jpg IMG_20191101_131203825.jpg

The cap came off completely damaged and with no marring of the paint surface on the strut tower.

When the bar comes in I'll see if I need to remove any more of the adhesive foam will Goo Gone or another solvent and likely more heat.

In the meantime I'm considering what the purpose of the cap is. I'm leaning toward sound deadening, especially considering that thick application of adhesive foam in there. So I might see if I can fashion a pad out of Dyna Mat to place between the strut tower and the bar mount.
 

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I ended up removing only enough adhesive to avoid a poor fit between the bar mounts and the strut towers. The factory gaskets under the tower were misaligned so I had to use a hobby knife to cut away gasket at both front bolt holes.

To minimize any potential issue with noise transfer and to avoid any scuffing of the paint on the strut towers, I made some gaskets of my own to isolate the surfaces. I used the heat gun to soften up the remaining glue before positioning my gaskets and bar mounts and pressing them down for a good snug fit. (Washers need to go on first.) The gaskets also covered up the portion of the tower than doesn't have a top coat of paint, as well as the remaining glue.

IMG_20191104_132059303.jpg IMG_20191104_132133082.jpg


I used a ratchet extension, a crows-foot wrench head and duct tape, along with a hand mirror and my LED headlight to position the nuts under the front holes. Note the red Sharpie ink to make it easier to spot the center of the nut through the mirror and bolt hole. This worked on the third attempt on the right hand side but took a good bit longer on the driver side. On that side I had a very hard time getting the nut centered, possibly because there was still a portion of the factory gasket in the way. So I finally had use a drift punch to poke around in the hole and pull the nut to the center.

IMG_20191104_130819291.jpg IMG_20191104_133849707.jpg

This procedure allowed me to do the job by myself without jacking up the car, but if you want to install this bar quickly my advice is to take the front wheels off and get under the car with a helper steering the bolts from above.

Otherwise it is an easy enough job and there is a noticeable improvement in the steering feel and turn-in.

IMG_20191104_141835791 (2).jpg IMG_20191104_141848212.jpg IMG_20191104_141943402.jpg
 

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I ended up removing only enough adhesive to avoid a poor fit between the bar mounts and the strut towers. The factory gaskets under the tower were misaligned so I had to use a hobby knife to cut away gasket at both front bolt holes.

To minimize any potential issue with noise transfer and to avoid any scuffing of the paint on the strut towers, I made some gaskets of my own to isolate the surfaces. I used the heat gun to soften up the remaining glue before positioning my gaskets and bar mounts and pressing them down for a good snug fit. (Washers need to go on first.) The gaskets also covered up the portion of the tower than doesn't have a top coat of paint, as well as the remaining glue.

View attachment 56564 View attachment 56565


I used a ratchet extension, a crows-foot wrench head and duct tape, along with a hand mirror and my LED headlight to position the nuts under the front holes. Note the red Sharpie ink to make it easier to spot the center of the nut through the mirror and bolt hole. This worked on the third attempt on the right hand side but took a good bit longer on the driver side. On that side I had a very hard time getting the nut centered, possibly because there was still a portion of the factory gasket in the way. So I finally had use a drift punch to poke around in the hole and pull the nut to the center.

View attachment 56566 View attachment 56567

This procedure allowed me to do the job by myself without jacking up the car, but if you want to install this bar quickly my advice is to take the front wheels off and get under the car with a helper steering the bolts from above.

Otherwise it is an easy enough job and there is a noticeable improvement in the steering feel and turn-in.

View attachment 56568 View attachment 56569 View attachment 56570
It is actually very surprising how different that turn in feels . Did you loose a little ride over uneven surfaces ?
My car doesn't seem to flex as much so it feels like I lost a little ride comfort.
 

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It is actually very surprising how different that turn in feels . Did you loose a little ride over uneven surfaces ?
My car doesn't seem to flex as much so it feels like I lost a little ride comfort.
I agree there is less flex in the front end. I really haven't noticed a significant change in ride though and I'm pretty sensitive to that. It could be that it is more noticeable with the AWD S suspension than the AWD C, though the AWD C suspension is supposedly calibrated more for handling rather than ride like the FWD, I don't think it is as stiff as the S.
 

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I agree there is less flex in the front end. I really haven't noticed a significant change in ride though and I'm pretty sensitive to that. It could be that it is more noticeable with the AWD S suspension than the AWD C, though the AWD C suspension is supposedly calibrated more for handling rather than ride like the FWD, I don't think it is as stiff as the S.
I also have the Eibach lowering springs .
 
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