This happens to me ALL THE TIME! It just happened 5 mins ago. To fix this, I stop, turn the car off and turn it back on. This morning it took me 5 times of doing this to get it to work! I was told it was a sensor. The problem is, when I take it to a shop, it works just fine when they start it up! I am just going to tell them to fix the sensor. I have also experienced the thrust when I first drive it. I back out of the garage, put it in drive, drive just a little and a HARD push forward happens. At that point, I know I will have that stuck in gear problem so I shut it off and turn it back k on again HOPING it will then shift correctly. I should not have to do all of this. So frustrating and scary!
Stuck in First Gear- 2013 200 six speed
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I have a 2012 Chrysler 200 touring with 96,000 miles on it. Have only had it for maybe a year and a half to 2 years and I am still making payments on it. Last summer I had a problem of my car not shifting on the way home from the park me and my boyfriend had went hiking at. RPMs reached almost 7,000 and my car almost stalled in the middle of a dangerous road with a lot of hills that people fly on. When I had gotten home, my father thought that the problem was low transmission fluid, so he added some in for me. Took it out for a test drive a few minutes after and it shifted just fine, wasn't shifting hard to jerking forward like it normally does when shifting gears. No biggy, thought the problem was fixed and since then I have had no problems until now. So just recently the same problem has been occurring, and a lot more frequently. Seems like my car is getting stuck in first gear and won't shift whatsoever. It has its days where its fine and days where it isn't and it worries me to drive anywhere far or on a highway. Could be many things causing it such as speed sensors, a valve sticking, or maybe the throttle body which i thought of? I'm not really sure. Seems like an on going problem with this type of vehicle. Just wondering if anyone has figured out what's causing this to occur? If so, what did you do to fix the problem? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
Whenever a transaxle goes into 'limp-in', it will shift to a default gear (like 2nd gear) instead of stranding you. 2nd gear is a hydraulic/mechanical gear range, which means that it does not depend on any electronics to select 2nd gear.
As a 'failsafe', it will get you home or to a shop in the event of electronic failure.
At the same time, a fault code should be stored in the PCM or TCM (transaxle control module) and it may light the yellow 'ck engine' light. This fault code(s) should stay in PCM/TCM memory for 40-50 key starts. Even if the dash light goes out, the code(s) should still be stored. Begin by getting the fault code(s).
If you can't get the code to display in the odometer with the 'key dance', then you may need to read the code with a scan tool. Many auto parts stores will read codes for free. An OBDII engine code reader may or may not display transaxle codes as these codes may not be considered 'emissions' -related.
Turning the key off, then back on may reset the TCM. It may come out of limp-in, but the code(s) should still be stored in memory.
For known problems, many can be fixed with a non-invasive software update. Periodic ATF+4 and filter changes allow the pan bottom and magnet to be inspected as a baseline for tranaxle 'health'.
The car may not have a dipstick (I use a length of old speedometer cable and a temperature chart). Don't just add ATF if you aren't sure of the level. Overfilling can be just as bad. Use ATF+4 meeting Chrysler MS-9602 only. No Dexron or Mercon fluids. Do not mix fluids.
The only way for ATF to be low is if you have an oil leak. If the pan and cooler hoses under the car are dry, the level is probably OK.
Always diagnose first. Even the best guesses can be frustrating and expensive.
Some TSB examples:
As a 'failsafe', it will get you home or to a shop in the event of electronic failure.
At the same time, a fault code should be stored in the PCM or TCM (transaxle control module) and it may light the yellow 'ck engine' light. This fault code(s) should stay in PCM/TCM memory for 40-50 key starts. Even if the dash light goes out, the code(s) should still be stored. Begin by getting the fault code(s).
If you can't get the code to display in the odometer with the 'key dance', then you may need to read the code with a scan tool. Many auto parts stores will read codes for free. An OBDII engine code reader may or may not display transaxle codes as these codes may not be considered 'emissions' -related.
Turning the key off, then back on may reset the TCM. It may come out of limp-in, but the code(s) should still be stored in memory.
For known problems, many can be fixed with a non-invasive software update. Periodic ATF+4 and filter changes allow the pan bottom and magnet to be inspected as a baseline for tranaxle 'health'.
The car may not have a dipstick (I use a length of old speedometer cable and a temperature chart). Don't just add ATF if you aren't sure of the level. Overfilling can be just as bad. Use ATF+4 meeting Chrysler MS-9602 only. No Dexron or Mercon fluids. Do not mix fluids.
The only way for ATF to be low is if you have an oil leak. If the pan and cooler hoses under the car are dry, the level is probably OK.
Always diagnose first. Even the best guesses can be frustrating and expensive.
Some TSB examples:
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