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New to the forums... I bought a 2015 Chrysler 200 limited a month ago and I would like to add a subwoofer/amp in the trunk, with the stock stereo (8.4 uconnect touchscreen)

Anyone have a DIY for adding a subwoofer/wiring?
 

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Look up how to use/install a line output converter. PAC makes good ones. Run power/ground and the necessary wiring from your LOC to your amp and you're good to go.
 

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What size is the hole for the factory free air sub-woofer? 8" 10" ?
 

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It is 8" for the factory. I cut mine out and used the OEM wire to comnect to a LOC and then to my amp and subs. I still have to remove the 8" sub one of these days and put it up for sale if its even worth anything anymore.

I find the 8" air sub sounded funny. It sounded like rubber flapping in the trunk. With my new subs in a proper box, I can feel the vibrations with the amp gain turned very low. If I ever want my trunk to explode, Ill just max the gain and bass boost.
 

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If I ever want my trunk to explode, Ill just max the gain and bass boost.
no offense but that is a horrible philosophy... Car Audio systems sound best when properly tuned. When the amp gains are maxed out there will be a ton of distortion and you run the risk of clipping/blowing your whole system.

If you need more bass just upgrade your speakers and/or amp, but do it the right way.
 

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I find the 8" air sub sounded funny. It sounded like rubber flapping in the trunk. With my new subs in a proper box, I can feel the vibrations with the amp gain turned very low. If I ever want my trunk to explode, Ill just max the gain and bass boost.
I was hoping you woudln't say that. I have had a sub in a box with an amp and capacitor etc.. when I was younger, but I want to keep my trunk space. Maybe I'll upgrade all my speakers and then add the free air sub - i'd at least like it to sound like my wife's old 13' Limited with the Boston stereo. Not looking to shatter the back window or anything... lol

BassWars.png
 

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I was hoping you woudln't say that. I have had a sub in a box with an amp and capacitor etc.. when I was younger, but I want to keep my trunk space. Maybe I swap all my speakers - i'd at least like it to sound like my wife's old 13' Limited with the Boston stereo.
I have the Alpine system with 8" sub and it sounds just fine for stock (and I'm a car audio fanatic). There's some minimal rattling from the rear deck lid but nothing that a little sound deadening can't take care of. I experience no "rubber flapping" noise. You could also look into the option of replacing the 8" re-air sub. I'm sure there are a few options out there.

If you absolutely have to add a sub to get the sound you want, look into something shallow mount that requires minimal box size. Kenwood makes a decent, cheap model that is great for just a little extra bass. Alpine and JL also make nice setups. Their 8" subs require fairly small boxes as well.
 

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I have the Alpine system with 8" sub and it sounds just fine for stock (and I'm a car audio fanatic). There's some minimal rattling from the rear deck lid but nothing that a little sound deadening can't take care of. I experience no "rubber flapping" noise. You could also look into the option of replacing the 8" re-air sub. I'm sure there are a few options out there.

If you absolutely have to add a sub to get the sound you want, look into something shallow mount that requires minimal box size. Kenwood makes a decent, cheap model that is great for just a little extra bass. Alpine and JL also make nice setups. Their 8" subs require fairly small boxes as well.
I've heard the Alpine stereo in the 15'-17' 200 and i don't like the sound as much as the Boston in the older 200's and 300's. I don't have even the Alpine so I don't have the factory sub, I am looking to add one.

Thanks for the advise.
 

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no offense but that is a horrible philosophy... Car Audio systems sound best when properly tuned. When the amp gains are maxed out there will be a ton of distortion and you run the risk of clipping/blowing your whole system.

If you need more bass just upgrade your speakers and/or amp, but do it the right way.
Sorry. I shouldn't have put that. I was being sarcastic I forget things get lost in translation sometimes. Hopefully no one takes that seriously. But yah, I got 1000W RMS alpine amp running two low quality pioneer subs in a cheap vented bassworx box I bought off kijiji for 20 bucks so if anything the subs will probably go through some catastrophic failure first.

I can't agree about the OEM sub though but that is a personal preference so it will be different for everyone. I use to have the OEM sub at max and it still didn't feel strong enough. Instead, it did distort for certain tracks so I had to put the bass level at half way and that became exceptionally underwhelming in terms of what I want for bass. Now with my own system, I can have the bass at neutral and hear the levels of bass without it being distorted. It feels nice to have my scalp tickled when the bass hits.

But of course, I am in my twenties. I think my preferences may change in the future when both my eardrums are blown. Then I will need enough bass to displace my organs so that I can at least feel the bass.
 

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I was hoping you woudln't say that. I have had a sub in a box with an amp and capacitor etc.. when I was younger, but I want to keep my trunk space. Maybe I'll upgrade all my speakers and then add the free air sub - i'd at least like it to sound like my wife's old 13' Limited with the Boston stereo. Not looking to shatter the back window or anything... lol

View attachment 50617
Bake mentioned a good point about shallow mounts and I doubt you will custom build a fiber glass box to fit into either sides of the trunk. The latter is the cleaner option if you want it to look nice and not sacrifice a cubic foot of room behind the seats. I haven't had time to compare and listen to the alpine stock speaker vs a mid tier aftermarket counterpart yet so I can't comment on that. I just know that when I replaced my 02 Explorer's 4 door OEM speakers and had them hooked up to an amp, the difference was beyond night and day. I didn't even need a sub but I did add them because I needed to feel the vibrations. The replacement was done 14 years apart so technology is not even comparable.

Maybe in a couple more years I'll replace all the OEM speakers in the '15 200 if its not my daily driver anymore. I put a couple thousand dollars into the car already and realized I put too many kms on it to even continue modding it and keep it nice. Still looking for coil overs though but that can wait.

Regardless, hope everything works out for you. Cheers!
 

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Shutting off??

Okay so I have a 2016 Chrysler 200. The sound system is a little lacking stock, so I ran a loc from the rear deck, wired it to my amp, and had great bass. For about 5 minutes. It shuts my factory rear deck speakers off... any ideas? I have to pull the fuse for the radio in order to reset it and get them working again, but every time I try for bass, they shut off.
 

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Shutting off??

Okay so I have a 2016 Chrysler 200. The sound system is a little lacking stock, so I ran a loc from the rear deck, wired it to my amp, and had great bass. For about 5 minutes. It shuts my factory rear deck speakers off... any ideas? I have to pull the fuse for the radio in order to reset it and get them working again, but every time I try for bass, they shut off.
 

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I heard that they have inline resistors that you need a lc2i converter with resistor wires that will hook to the factory speakers. Mine does the same thing and I’m gonna try that from what my local audio place said.
 

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buy a lc2i line out converter. tap into the rear speakers. quick and easy. that what I did in mine
I can’t find the wiring diagram to the 2015 Chrysler 200 limited with the regular unconnect head. I’m trying to add the LOC but having trouble finding which wires are the 12constant and the rear speakers
 

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The OEM receiver has BTL (balanced transformer less) outputs...this means that there is NO ground going to any speaker...

On a grounded speaker system one wire is grounded and the other wire signal swings positive and negative in reference to ground...

On a BTL speaker system as one wire swings positive the other wire swings negative in reference to it virtually doubling the size of the signal... (more power from a "stock" radio for very little extra money)...

If you add a LOC (line output converter) and wire it incorrectly you end up trying to drive one half of the BTL signal into ground and the protection system within the radio looks at this as a direct SHORT and disables the offending channel (say the left rear speaker for example)... Removing the radio fuse (+12 volt feed) resets the radio until the next time you try to push the signal high enough for the protection circuit to again shut down that speaker...

If you want to use a LOC tie ONLY the positive (+) wire going to the speaker to the plus input of the LOC and then tie the minus input to the body ground... DO NOT connect the negative lead going to the speaker to the LOC...
This provides a signal through the LOC to your low level power amp inputs (RCA jacks) without loading down your "stock"/OEM radio BTL lines and the protection circuit will not activate... The LOC receives only half of the speaker level signal but this is more than enough signal to feed your add on amplifier to it's rated signal output...

BTW the rated "power output" of most amps is no where near the actual power it puts out on most amplifiers sold today... At one time the actual rated output was controlled by the FTC (federal trade commission 1970~1990) and WAS accurate... If the manufacturing company misled or over stated the output and distortion ratings the FTC heavily fined them... Today "power output" ratings are a farce...

Like the FDA... the claims for garbage sold on TV the consumer has to be "buyer beware" as they seldom go after misleading sellers...

Information from a "true" Audiofile that knows what real audio should sound like...
(low distortion (.001 THD @ rated output into a proper 2/4/8 ohm load for 10 minutes from 20~20,000hz ) with also low IM distortion (intermodulation distortion)...

Most car and home systems today are loud and distorted and use class D/H outputs with sound no where near a true class A or A/AB amplifier... They are just LOUD...
 
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