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nothing as of yet, i know of one member may be putting a turbo kit together this year but that is for the 2.4. The supercharger posted is for the charger/challenger, although it may be possible to work on our cars with some fabrication. With chrysler axing this thing in a few years i doubt any companies will put in the R&D for a blower/turbo kit. It definately sucks but what do you do haha
 

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I've done some research and from what I've gathered you can use the supercharger/turbo for the Charger/Challenger but before anything you have to send in your PCM to DiabloTune to reprogram. That in itself is probably $600-$1000 depending on shipping and what not. And from everything I've found so far though (Just an FYI I have not done myself nor do I know anyone that has personally) Tidal's supercharger kit would work after the PCM reprogramming.

If anyone else finds out more info I'd love to know as well!
 

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I've actually spent the last almost two years doing a TON of research. I've got a pair of TD04-9 turbos I originally intended to use but as I started bending up some pipes this last fall I realized there just wasn't enough room to bend up what I wanted and feel safe about right near the block. (I'm leaving the cats and doing the turbos immediately after due to state laws). Then I switched to playing with an Eaton M90 or M62 from a GM car (3.8 FWD cars) that have a bypass valve and solenoid that is electrically switched so I can control when boost is built.

Here's some key things to consider: TidalWave wouldn't answer me several times. Gave up. Only thing I'd still like to know now is what # injectors he includes in kit and what MAP sensor he ships. But...I can determine those for myself, I just wanted to know.

RIPPMods' only answer they were ever willing to give me was: "Not on that platform."

So then I've talked to Sean at HemiFever Tuning quite a bit. His is the statement I'm concerned about how he says the PCM's for ALL 3.6 pentastars don't deal with boost at part throttle very well at all and you're liable to be moving the pistons in the wrong directions if you're not careful. :) Because of this I have always planned to turn boost off (or at least very low, like 2-3 PSI) at part throttle and then kick it on full to 6PSI at WOT only.

By the way--I've had several suggest not going more than 6PSI (Sean particularly) and a few who are willing to stretch to about 7 or 8. The RippMods and/or TidalWave both offer up to 8PSI on the pentastars.

So then I talked with Rick Squires who founded STS Turbo (since it was looking like I'd have to mount my twin turbos all the way back in the back). He is willing to tune with me on dyno (he's local) but not willing to build a kit. (He sold, then when new owners ran into bankruptcy in 2015 he bought back patents and such.)

So now I'm considering trying out a Garret GT3076 type single turbo (since I don't have to create all that much boost).

On your point of research says if you do the PCM you should be able to use the TidalWave. True--if you have a method of tuning you should be able to use any sort of forced induction, really, right? Makes sense. TW only selling pump, fuel injectors, sensors, and odds and ends you can piece together so long as you have a tool or someone good enough to tune. That is why I'm building myself this summer and fall. I've got two very trusted tuners I can use--Sean HemiFever and Rick from STS Turbos. I will let you know how it goes.

Big problem with superchargers is there just isn't a really good place to mount. For the Eaton I have a machinist lined up to build me an extension shaft so that the compressor housing is actually over the transmission (lots of room there once stock intake is move). Other option is a reverse-spin centrifugal mounted over the frame rails. STill tight on a 200/Avenger but it does look like a VERY viable option on my Grand Caravan 3.6. (Need HP Tuners instead of Diablo--I tried having Diablo write GC Vin on a 200/Avenger file and it didn't work.)

Sorry--I've got to go now to a meeting, but if you have more questions, ask and/or PM me. I'm pretty serious about trying to be the first turbo Chrysler 200, but it looks like it's going to be a single with stock y-pipe just in front of the firewall rather than some fancy twin-turbo setup like I hoped. (I was going to put a Maserati badge on the car as a little nod.)

P.
 

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BTW-- a little more detail on what I've gathered trying to decide best thing to do. (I've been trying to do as a "budget" turbo install for $1500 or less and I think I can easily do it, provided I do the work of bending and welding pipes, making brackets, etc., etc.)

1) Use a WERX EVA Oil pump to circulate oil for a turbo--then you don't have to tap into or return to the engine. Just run it through a reservoir--it sucks through from the outlet of turbo(s) so you let the gravity feed the turbos. (Or you could also pump into the turbos but use a restrictor so you're not putting too much pressure on bearings.) The EVA is the pump guys who have had the STS Turbo kit used to replace the pump that STS included in their kit when/if it failed. It's reasonable price.

2) Someone on here (BlackKnight? Gooch?) suggested using the C230 Kompressor type supercharger from Mercedes because it has a clutch like an AC compressor. It's a good option, but my problem was still mounting space and also that I didn't think what was available on cars in the wrecking yards was going to pump enough cfm--so I'd almost want two of them. Then you also need a bypass valve for when it's not on and you have vacuum. I figured the Eaton superchargers were better for that. Plus, there are a lot of people already making extension shafts for the Eaton and mounting it "behind" the engine on many FWD cars.

3) In case I didn't make that clear, I'm going to use the DiabloSport products and some CRM tuner to tune my setup.

4) Sean at Hemifever suggested 60+ pound injectors with a 2bar MAP sensor. His reasoning was that the 2bar will cut the signal in half and the proportions for the injector pulse width would be correct then. However, I've used some calculators and found that for 6PSI boost on that engine I should probably be using between 46 and 54 lbs injectors. So...I was sort of thinking of buying RIPPMods 42lbs injector set since they're so cheap and just be very, very careful with the tune (and/or back down to 5PSI if it ended up ever running too lean.) I maybe don't even need a 2bar MAP if I'm maxing out at 6PSI...we'll see once I'm ready to fire it up and can monitor it.

5) The idea with turbos is a dual-stage electric-switched boost controller so that normal is 0-3PSI and WOT (switched at throttle) turns to second range of 6 (or 8) PSI. With the Eaton supercharger I was just going to power the solenoid that opens the bypass at WOT to close it only at WOT and be full open the rest of the time.

6) Despite #5 above and what Sean at HF has said, I may just pay to have Rick Squires tune it once I'm ready on a dyno because--I'm at 4200 feet elevation; I want immediate feedback to see if pushing to 7 or 8 PSI is safe; I want to see if we can tune 3-6 PSI at part throttle safely or not.

7) In connection to #6 I am planning on buying a camera for looking into the cylinder. I think it will become just part of my monthly maintenance so I can see if I'm damaging cylinder walls or piston tops at all and back off.

8) Definitely use an intercooler. Use the RIPPMods 180 degree thermostat, whatever you can to bring the temperature down. IN that regard I'm looking at potentially buying my mother's GXP Pontiac Grand Prix (5.3 FWD car) since she's nearing 80 and having troubles keeping from smashing the aluminum rims on low profile tires to the point where they leak. In that case there's a turbo kit from car tuning and they include a water/methanol injection setup with kit--can't buy without. So...if I'm having problems and can't tune it safely, I think I will do the same, switch it from the same throttle switch, have an inline on/off switch so that I can be driving around with no risk of building boost or injection meth (and even run a regular non-forced induction tune on my DiabloSport) and then when it's time to go fast switch it all on. We'll see.


Hope that helps.


Lastly--will I make a hardware kit once I'm done? No...probably not. But I will do how-to videos and will be more than happy to share information. Remember that Rick Squires owns some pretty serious patents on after-cat, rear-mount turbos too... I'm not looking to make money on selling a kit. I just want to kick some butt with this sleeper.
 

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Oh yeah...and one last thing--with your 2015+ you'll need to use HP Tuner from OverKill--no DiabloSport product yet. (The separate/rewrite/code break PCM situation is for 2015 and up, sure, but only Overkill/HPTuners has the means of doing that right now, not Diablo. Incidentally, they do the Journeys and Caravans as well, where Diablo doesn't have those VINS/files working yet...or ever probably.)
 

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Thanks for all the info. Like I said I haven't done anything nor do I know anyone so everything I've researched in the last 6-12 months is all just hear say. Wish I had all the funds to play with testing on mine but I don't currently. Definitely keep me updated on how the project goes and what kind of production your getting and recommendations and what not. I'm only 899' for elevation so I know the results will vary quite a bit from your 4200'
 

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2) Someone on here (BlackKnight? Gooch?) suggested using the C230 Kompressor type supercharger from Mercedes because it has a clutch like an AC compressor. It's a good option, but my problem was still mounting space and also that I didn't think what was available on cars in the wrecking yards was going to pump enough cfm--so I'd almost want two of them. Then you also need a bypass valve for when it's not on and you have vacuum. I figured the Eaton superchargers were better for that. Plus, there are a lot of people already making extension shafts for the Eaton and mounting it "behind" the engine on many FWD cars.

7) In connection to #6 I am planning on buying a camera for looking into the cylinder. I think it will become just part of my monthly maintenance so I can see if I'm damaging cylinder walls or piston tops at all and back off.
2- I bought a C230 blower for my VW Beetle project. There were two different versions, one was an Eaton m62, the other is a m45. I ended up getting the m45, very compact. I ended up converting the clutch to a normal "locked" pulley. You have to calculate the blower speed based off of crank pulley size and s/c pulley size. IIRC, the stock m45 put out 7-9 psi with the oem size pulleys, and was a few thousand rpm from max blower rpm. Based on the 7" VW crank pulley and the 2.5" s/c pulley, I calculated a slight overspeed and my best guess at 12psi. I ended up making the s/c pully an adjustable hub setup, so if I needed more/less boost, just swap a pulley. With the stock electro-pulley, IIRC was a two pin electro-magnet setup. So you could easily engage/disengage it based on a toggle switch, wot switch, boost switch, etc....

7- You can get a bore scope that connects to an Android/iPhone for pretty cheap.Great tool to have, way less then a ~$1200 Snap-On or equivalent.

These guys might be help. Been trying to get the manifold flange they use to help speed up my "header/downpipe". prodigyperformance.com/products/pro-2002-2012-2014-jeep-wrangler-stage-2-intercooled-jeep-turbo-kit.html
 

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Soooo I came across this pt cruiser gt motor With the turbo still intact. Mind you its the the same turbo set up in the srt 4 if im not mistaken. Just laying on the ground at my local pick a part and i thought To myself 2.4L Chrysler hmmm sounds familiar. I need some input on this. Anything helps. Cause if not theres always the motor swap route since the non awd 3.6l still uses a 9 speed transmission least i can go from 184hp to 295hp under 1500$
 
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