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Hey guys. So I ended up buying a Chrysler 200 LX 2013 2.4L 2 months ago with 80k miles. Remind you it is due for a oil change. (Scheduled Next Friday)
This thing shakes going down the highway or even just idling. It takes SO SO much gas than it should. More than my truck I traded for it. Its noisier than should.

One morning I was getting ready to go to work and as I had been sitting in my driveway for about 5 minutes it revved itself up to 2,000RPMS and the throttle body light started blinking. I turned it off and back on immediately and it was fine. It's done this to me about 5 times in the past 2 months i had it. It only does it early in the mornings on first start.
Aslo when you let off the gas like on the highway to cruise down a hill or something it's like you pressed on the break real quickly and slows way down than should. It's hard to get it up to speed like it don't want to take off until you hit higher speeds. It also putts out every now and then for a quick second. Engine light is on but I got it tested and they said it's the temperature teller for outside. So no engine light for nothing. Oh! and my battery light just started coming on every now and then when I'm driving
Let's hope it just needs a oil change.
Thank you for taking the time to read. Please help me
 

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Hey guys. So I ended up buying a Chrysler 200 LX 2013 2.4L 2 months ago with 80k miles. Remind you it is due for a oil change. (Scheduled Next Friday)
This thing shakes going down the highway or even just idling. It takes SO SO much gas than it should. More than my truck I traded for it. Its noisier than should.

One morning I was getting ready to go to work and as I had been sitting in my driveway for about 5 minutes it revved itself up to 2,000RPMS and the throttle body light started blinking. I turned it off and back on immediately and it was fine. It's done this to me about 5 times in the past 2 months i had it. It only does it early in the mornings on first start.
Aslo when you let off the gas like on the highway to cruise down a hill or something it's like you pressed on the break real quickly and slows way down than should. It's hard to get it up to speed like it don't want to take off until you hit higher speeds. It also putts out every now and then for a quick second. Engine light is on but I got it tested and they said it's the temperature teller for outside. So no engine light for nothing. Oh! and my battery light just started coming on every now and then when I'm driving
Let's hope it just needs a oil change.
Thank you for taking the time to read. Please help me
Don't want to dash your hopes, but it's not just an oil change.
You have several issues happening.
Without testing for fault codes and getting a proper diagnosis, there isn't anyway to know which or what problems you have.
The 2.4 engine should be fuel efficient. Get it checked.
 

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Yeah.. my boyfriend looked up under it just now and its leaking bad around the oil pan .I also forgot to mention the brake light will come and go also.
It's not throwing ANY codes except for the temperature teller for outside I guess that's what happens when you buy your first car by yourself. And I think I over paid🙄😪
 

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Don't want to dash your hopes, but it's not just an oil change.
You have several issues happening.
Without testing for fault codes and getting a proper diagnosis, there isn't anyway to know which or what problems you have.
The 2.4 engine should be fuel efficient. Get it checked.

It's a 12mile drive to work all highway regular speeds and I can use just about a 8th of a tank.
 

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It's a 12mile drive to work all highway regular speeds and I can use just about a 8th of a tank.
You could be further damaging the engine with the excessive fuel dumping into the motor.
Oil leaking and the other issues you mentioned need to be addressed.

I don't think that the "check engine" light illuminates because of a defective outside temperature sensor.
That light is to tell you there is something that could be damaging to the engine or emissions system.

Get it to a reputable mechanic for a proper diagnosis.
 

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I am next Friday.
The Chevy dealer that sold it to me told me that's why it's on. I also took it to O'Reillys to get it double checked and they said the same thing. No other issues. Would the 'key dance' work on my model?
 

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I am next Friday.
The Chevy dealer that sold it to me told me that's why it's on. I also took it to O'Reillys to get it double checked and they said the same thing. No other issues. Would the 'key dance' work on my model?
If your vehicle still uses a key, then yes it should be able to retrieve codes, if they are stored.
However, it makes no difference to you because you don't know what the codes mean and secondly, because a code is present does not mean that is the fault.
Many different scenarios can cause a fault to register, from leaking vacuum hoses to to a failed sensor or even worn or broken wiring.
Personally I wouldn't expect much help from the Chevy dealer, only because they don't have the knowledge ( factory manuals and tech support from Chrysler ) or the equipment needed to repair you car.
My other suggestion is to have an independent mechanic inspect the vehicle and document each and every issue.

Sounds to me like that dealer sold you an unsafe car.
 

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I understand! And They forsure did. There's no warranty either I tried the lemon law but since it was 'used' it didn't work. Of course everything was perfect on the test drive. A week later I had to take it back to them to put a ac compressor in for $500 and than after that it just went to CRAP. I love how the car drives and everything but all these problems. I knew I shouldn't have bought a chrysler from a Chevy dealership. There a-holes when it comes to fixing things also. Sales man even said "oh if anything breaks we will fix it." Yeah for an over charge, but Thank you so much for the info!
 

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I would think there is a problem with your throttle body but that doesn't explain the excessive fuel consumption - it could be more than just one issue.

I know if the throttle body is taken off and cleaned against Chrysler's recommendation, it can be permanently damaged if the butterfly is manually opened with a finger. When re-installed and driven, it will work for a while then run like garbage... it could be the previous owner did that. That's what it sounds like to me - at least for one of the symptoms.

I hope things get better and I agree with the advise of fltru103 about taking it elsewhere and getting everything documented.
 
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Bri,

Some of your problems sound like the alternator is not outputting the correct voltage. You can have it checked at an auto parts store.

Also, since it's the LX trim level, it is most likely a former rental car. It may have been abused by renters.
 

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High fuel usage may be from running rich or misfire. Misfire should eventually set a fault code. The ETC (throttle) light should also have set a fault code.
Some of these LEV 2.4L have the copper core spark plugs that have a 30K mile service interval. Owners that think they are platinums (for PZEV), may run them way past their due date.
If they are copper, it is best to replace them with copper. OEM is recommended as well. Go with the same Champion or NGK type listed for your specific application.
I would not continue to drive it with a malfunction as it could possibly damage the engine.
Don't neglect oil as the valvetrain depends on oil pressure for proper valve lift and timing adjustment. Use the specified synthetic meeting Chrysler MS-6395.
Always diagnose first. Best of luck to you. :)

 

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Checking the voltage while the engine is running will cost you nothing. You can do it yourself if you have a volt meter. The voltage across the jump start posts should be at least 13.5 volts while the engine is running. Ideally, it should be 14.4 volts.

If the voltage is below 13.5 volts while the engine is running, this can explain many of the problems you are experiencing.
 

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These engines drink a lot of oil. In doing so they foul the plugs and don't usually last the 100k miles Chrysler says they should. I changed mine myself at 60k and they were in bad shape. Also the the coil boots degrade and cause misfires. There are factory boot replacements. Engine shaking could also be worn mounts. The motor mounts on these cars are fluid filled and are know to go bad quickly due to the also known problem of hard transmission shifts.
 
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