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Is everyone on vacation or what? Nobody's around anymore.

Anyways, I went to the dealer for a transmission fluid flush, they took the car and all, an hour later they came back to me thinking they were done, just to tell me they couldn't do it because it was a sealed unit and required special fluid that was not ATF-4, which is what is in their flush machine.

Morons couldn't even do a drain/refill, and it's not sealed if it has a drain and fill plugs, which I know it does, and their "special" fluid is just ATF 8-9 speed fluid, which they should have anyway.

I'll do it myself, I already bought the dipstick on Amazon, 7 qts of fluid at RockAuto.com, and there's a YouTube video on how to get to the refill plug where I'll use a fluid transfer pump.

I can't imagine how messed up those "sealed" transmissions will be a decade down the road, considering the fluid will never be changed, since not even the dealership wants to service them.
Hard to believe yours was the first KF (Cherokee) or UF (200) transmission fluid service request that dealer had ever had to deal with! Which is sure what it sounds like!!

You'd think they'd be jumping up and down to do this service and charge big $$ due to the extra effort and special tool required to check the level. But apparently if they couldn't do the job with the magic flush machine the way it was already configured, it was just too much trouble for these guys. My guess is that they didn't have a tech certified to work on the transmission.

Too many stories about poor dealer service departments here. Glad that at least my dealer's service department has been generally competent and professional.

Please let us know how the DIY job goes.
 

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Is everyone on vacation or what? Nobody's around anymore.

Anyways, I went to the dealer for a transmission fluid flush, they took the car and all, an hour later they came back to me thinking they were done, just to tell me they couldn't do it because it was a sealed unit and required special fluid that was not ATF-4, which is what is in their flush machine.

Morons couldn't even do a drain/refill, and it's not sealed if it has a drain and fill plugs, which I know it does, and their "special" fluid is just ATF 8-9 speed fluid, which they should have anyway.

I'll do it myself, I already bought the dipstick on Amazon, 7 qts of fluid at RockAuto.com, and there's a YouTube video on how to get to the refill plug where I'll use a fluid transfer pump.

I can't imagine how messed up those "sealed" transmissions will be a decade down the road, considering the fluid will never be changed, since not even the dealership wants to service them.
Why change your transmission fluid to start with? These tranny are built to operate with the same oïl for at least 100 000 miles. No need to even think about it before that unless you already reached that point.
 
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Why change your transmission fluid to start with? These tranny are built to operate with the same oïl for at least 100 000 miles. No need to even think about it before that unless you already reached that point.
I recall a discussion here on this previously. All depends how long you expect to keep the vehicle. While it's reasonable to expect that FCA / ZF have tested enough to be confident that nearly all these transmissions will survive through the warranty period without a fluid change, they have little incentive to care much whether it fails after that. Over time fluid degrades, and clutch particles contaminate it, so at some point old fluid will be doing damage. Without test data, we can only guess what that period is, but I think it's pretty reasonable to want new fluid in there after 50,000 - 75,000 miles, if planning to hold on to the vehicle.

Worth noting that different manufacturers have different philosophies on fluid changes from my experience with my wife's 2004 Volvo XC70. (Which remains in great shape and which she still loves and won't let me replace!) Volvos and Toyotas from this period use the same Aisen auto transmissions. Volvo claimed the fluid was OK for life while Toyota recommended changing every 50,000 miles. (Same fluid spec BTW.) Since transmission failures with these Volvos have not been uncommon, most the owners on the forum I'm a member of change the fluid every 30,000 - 50,000 miles. By 30,000 miles the fluid is no longer clear red, but rather murky brown. From that perspective alone, and considering the cost of a rebuild, changing seems like cheap insurance.

Bottom line, while our ZF/FCAs are a more modern design, we can only hope they are more reliable. (At least a couple members here have had to have replacements.) We have no way of knowing how they'll hold up long term and at what point old fluid actually begins to do damage. So to me it seems better to err on the side of caution if you plan to be keeping the vehicle.
 

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I bought this car because of the sealed trany unit. I got tired of having to change fluid at $250 every 30k miles on prior cars.

I did laugh though at my dealer for trying to up sell me on changing the fluid. They tried and tried to convince me that this needs changing at 60k. Wish they didn't confuse my 200 with the Dart. That car does require changing.

Their current up sell is for me to pay $250 for fuel line system cleaning. Wow, this time they got some what aggressive about it.

I'm going to check later, but I believe the owners manual even states not to change fluid. I've even checked with Chrysler themselves on this. Their answer:


Thank you for contacting the FCA Customer Assistance Center. We can
certainly understand why this information is important to you, and are
pleased to provide vehicle maintenance information as per your request.

The transmission in your vehicle is in-fact a sealed unit. Under normal
operating conditions, the fluid installed at the factory will provide
satisfactory lubrication for the life of the vehicle.

Routine fluid and filter changes are not required. However, change the
fluid and filter if the fluid becomes contaminated (with water, etc.),
or if the transmission is disassembled for any reason.

I hope this information will be of assistance, and thank you again for
your email. Should you require additional assistance, or have any new
information to provide, please reply to this email message or call
1-800-247-9753.

Sincerely,

Alex

Customer Service Representative
FCA Customer Assistance Center

For any future communications related to this email, please refer to the
following information:
 

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If I still have the car in another 20K miles (I have 78K miles now :eek:), I will have the fluid exchanged or changed, whatever is recommended, until that point I am not going to bother. Preventative maintenance is good, but car hypochondria isn't a good thing for the wallet or peace of mind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
If I still have the car in another 20K miles (I have 78K miles now :eek:), I will have the fluid exchanged or changed, whatever is recommended, until that point I am not going to bother. Preventative maintenance is good, but car hypochondria isn't a good thing for the wallet or peace of mind.
They won't do it anyway, they don't even know how.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Stop saying it's sealed, it's not sealed if has drain and fill plugs.
Nothing wrong with changing transmission fluid every 3 year either, that fluid is not magically designed to stay clean forever either, so I don't care what the manual says.

Even if it's good for 100k, then what? Good for the trash?, since it's "sealed" there should be no way to replace the fluid, right? This whole trans is stupid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Anothere "sealed" trans I deal with is my wife's Kia, literally impossible to DIY (God knows I tried), I went to the dealer at 50k and they flushed it for $125, great deal and they didn't B.S me with that "sealed" crap, they did it, without drama, and they didn't act like it was the end of the world to change the fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
How many quarts to drain/refill?
That was your dealer only. Doesn't mean other dealers won't do it.
This is my dealership, best one here, I had 2005 Dodge Magnum before and they never gave me hassle for anything compared to the other ones, I tried two other dealers here for the 200 and they won't touch it, my 2-3 shift issue would require me to leave the car for 7-10 days. At least this dealership I use all the time did the software update for free in two hours.
 

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All I can say is this. Glad I purchased the "Lifetime" service contract from FCA. If the transmission takes a dump at some point in the future I'll know all they will do is throw in another replacement unit. ( over 73K at this time and she runs like a charm )
I am used to the transmission's characteristics and know when warm the shifts improve greatly.
If the service manual doesn't state when a maintenance item is needed, then it doesn't get it.
As for the fuel line, or fuel injection service. I use a can of Techron fuel system cleaner every now and then. Never had an issue.

Not shopping for a replacement car to this one until it dies.
 

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I have a 2015 200C V6. I am now on my third transmission. The only issue is that it has now developed a very hard 4-5 shift about 10% of the time. It is so hard it feels as if the car has been hit from behind. The other 90% it is smooth as silk. As usual, the dealer can't reproduce the problem.
I think your valve body needs to be replaced. I had the same issues, check out link and posts 23, 24 & 27.
http://www.200forums.com/forum/58-2...016-chrysler-200-transmission-slipping-3.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
I think your valve body needs to be replaced. I had the same issues, check out link and posts 23, 24 & 27.
http://www.200forums.com/forum/58-2...016-chrysler-200-transmission-slipping-3.html
Post # 2 is what's happening to mine, but it's not rare, it's 80% of the time, not the end of the world, but annoying, all other shifts are good. I know the dealer will say: "it's within parameters" or some B.S like that, I'll change the fluid myself and see if it helps, then I'll leave it alone regardless of whether or not the fluid change smoothes it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
I finally did a drain/refill of the transmission fluid, PITA to get to, took exactly 4 qts, fluid that came out was surprisingly clean, so you guys don't need to worry about it.
Only drove for 10 minutes, so I can't really tell if it smoothed it out much, I'll report back in a week.
My car is 4 y/o with 30k.

Fyi, dipstick was not really necessary, I used it anyway to check before and after just to make sure level was the same, but you can just put back in the amount you took out, makes it simple.

One thing I noticed is that the lug bolts are crap, they're 2 piece, and two of them almost fell apart at the head, so I'm gonna buy Gorilla one piece bolts.
 

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Mine does the really hard shift but it's the dog clutch I think. If I let cruise control do it it'll shift up, then down, then up again (really hard) as you can tell it's having trouble with how slow the dog clutch shifts. I think it's just the nature of the transmission (and why it's not used on anything now).
 

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I finally did a drain/refill of the transmission fluid, PITA to get to, took exactly 4 qts, fluid that came out was surprisingly clean, so you guys don't need to worry about it.
Only drove for 10 minutes, so I can't really tell if it smoothed it out much, I'll report back in a week.
My car is 4 y/o with 30k.

Fyi, dipstick was not really necessary, I used it anyway to check before and after just to make sure level was the same, but you can just put back in the amount you took out, makes it simple.

One thing I noticed is that the lug bolts are crap, they're 2 piece, and two of them almost fell apart at the head, so I'm gonna buy Gorilla one piece bolts.
Capacity of the transmission fluid is 6.3 quarts, so draining and refilling only 4 quarts left another 1/3 of the old fluid still inside. Not sure that would help anything. Did you also use check fluid level at the operating temperature recommended ?
Here is a good web seminar about the 9 speeds. Very detailed.
http://www.atra.com/Webinars/Chrysler/948TE_Introduction.pdf
 

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Transmission

I bought a used 2015 200S with 24K on it from CarMax..drove it 500 miles and loved it..no real shifting issues that I noticed...and then..In the parking garage one night, it just would not shift from Park to Reverse. The dash lights up like a Christmas tree "service transmission", "service parking brake" "Performance shifting not operational".....something like that., Check engine light is on. I shut the car off for two minutes, restart and all is well. I drive it another two days with no problems and then in my garage same thing happens again. I check the code with my scanner, P0810..a clutch thing? What?..or TCM..

I drive to the local dealer, as it is still under warranty. That afternoon, I get the call, they are replacing the entire transmission under warranty. I literally drove the car a week and a half and it's at the dealer for a tranny. It has had all the recalls completed, so I *thought* the transmission problems were taken care of.

Luckily, I had no issues while driving.. no sudden switching to Neutral, stalling.. any of that, so the recall might have corrected that problem.

I have had good luck with other Chrysler vehicles, a Grand Cherokee, and a Challenger. But I think I might be buying the extended warranty on this one..:confused:
 

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JEEZ... Good thing you have that warranty. Glad I have also. I guess a 2-3 funky shift is a sure sign of a trans prob where as the 4-5 is more of a quirk than a fatal prob. Good luck.
 

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Very common issue, just had them update mine about a month ago. Make sure they're updating per Technical Service Bulletin: 21-001-18 rev. C. One thing I love about it is it will sit and wait for you in 3rd gear when downshifting before kicking you into too low of a gear when you don't need the torque output - allows the TCM time to make a better "decision". Hopefully not mechanical damage has taken place yet.
 
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