[200_S_AWD]

Many shops give a gratis free multi-point check-up. Usually they mention this at write-up. There is no obligation to follow through with the work. Take it under consideration.
Second opinions are worth it unless she paid a diagnostic fee, the diagnostic fee is applied to the work if she returns. If she goes somewhere else, then she may have to pay a 2nd diagnosis fee to the new shop.

Choose priorities. Discuss options. Leaks can cause an early death in expensive assemblies. The rusty water bothers me. Make sure that it is A/C or exhaust condensate. You don't want a coolant leak to overheat an engine. Has it had at one flush during its life? 6-speed ATF+4 & filter change? With no dipstick, dropping the pan is a good gauge of transaxle health.
Has she been keeping up on scheduled maintenance? Fresh fluids & filters are important for a 12 year-old vehicle. You can download a service manual at charm.li. to see what's involved with repairs. Work that requires a lift or special tools might be best done by a shop.

First confirm that the work needs doing & they are not trying to pad the bill. Use OEM parts for best results, not necessarily Mopar, but a part that describes itself as 'OEM'.

Everytime I turn around, things are more expensive.

 

[200_S_AWD]

OK, I would believe a 4-speed (41TE). They were phasing it out & going to the 6-speed (62TE) at this time.
Don't be alarmed by estimates. Take the copy with you to 'think about it'. Most shops are honest, although they are always trying to sell extra work. Some of it may be needed. You can review what is listed on the recommendations to see if it is a real concern or not.

With the p/s pump noise, is it whirring on turns because of low fluid level from a leak? A pump noise may be only a symptom if the steering rack or hoses are leaking.
The water pump may be more accessible through the RF wheel well if that needs attention.
Or is the alternator growling from a bad bearing? Locate the source of the noise.

The 2.4L PZEV is due for spark plugs at 100K miles (160K km).
The OAT? coolant is a 10 year/150K mile (240K km) formula. Whichever comes first. Use distilled (dehumidifier) water?

The cabin air filter (the forgotten filter) is behind the glovebox & if the car is parked around trees, it may be needing attention?

Chrysler still recommends the pan drop/filter change method of transaxle service. The exchange or transfusion machines are convenient, but a baseline should be established on transaxle wear by seeing what's in the bottom of the pan, attached to the chip magnet & on the filter. Use ATF+4 meeting Chrysler MS-9602 only (the p/s uses the same fluid).

The scheduled maintenance intervals are listed in the owners manual. If these are the original fluids, they are the ones that the vehicle was 'broken-in' on & deserve refreshing. Aged, oxidized & dirty fluids will hasten component wear.

 

[200_S_AWD]

I have replaced noisy belt-driven accessories. Remove the belt & run the engine briefly to verify that the noise is gone. A 'flick' of the pulleys by hand may help in judging if there is a bearing 'roughness'. A stethoscope (hose & nail) can be used to find the culprit.

The alternator uses a 'decoupler' pulley for reducing noise/vibration. When they go bad, they can 'growl', 'chatter' or make a different kind of ruckus.

 

[200_S_AWD]

Note: It doesn't have to be the particular noise that's on that video.

 

[200_S_AWD]

Is there a label with a part number? It probably won't be the numbers below.
A 120 (sales code #BAN) or 140 amp (sales code #BAE) alternator was available.

A flick of the pulley for a quick spin with the belt off for any 'roughness', should determine how the bearings are.

 

[200_S_AWD]

The 'R' prefix is for 'reman'.