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You noted the P0882 was a stored code. A stored code is one that was previously active however the condition that set the code is no longer present. Stored codes are historical and are cleared after 30-40 restarts.

If you would like a fresh start on diagnostic codes, remove the thick black battery cable from the stud on the driver side strut tower and leave disconnected for 20-30 minutes. There is a plastic loop on the cable that slips over the stud to keep it from flopping around and making inadvertent contact. This will typically clear all diagnostic codes, pending, active, and stored.
 
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Discussion starter · #23 ·
You noted the P0882 was a stored code. A stored code is one that was previously active however the condition that set the code is no longer present. Stored codes are historical and are cleared after 30-40 restarts.

If you would like a fresh start on diagnostic codes, remove the thick black battery cable from the stud on the driver side strut tower and leave disconnected for 20-30 minutes. There is a plastic loop on the cable that slips over the stud to keep it from flopping around and making inadvertent contact. This will typically clear all diagnostic codes, pending, active, and stored.
Thank you ggoose! 🙏 I will do that first.. & then when i reattach the battery, will it show only the codes that truly are present & need to be fixed? Because we have not yet done the P 0882 fix yet..
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
Thank you 200_S_AWD!!😎 we'll follow the PDFs you sent, in order to safely / properly remove all the connectors..

Thank you so much too for the wiring diagrams but I have to be honest, i have very little idea of what it means.. would you please give me a brief explanation so that I can understand it a little better?

& also, should we conduct the voltage test on all the pins of the connectors, to see where there is no acceptance of voltage? (i'm so sorry, the "physical" body part auto stuff i just started to get the hang of, but the "electrical / computer" stuff is waaaay over my head)😰
 
The wiring diagrams are 'the from' & 'the to' between the components of the circuit for that particular fault code.
The wire colors also help identify the wire you are looking at.
You could check for continuity (a good connection) between beginning & end. Wires can be cut, pinched, corroded or rubbed-through. A bare spot can touch metal and 'ground' out (a short circuit). If they are cut or pulled-out, there can be no connection (an open circuit).
Somethings to look for in general for electrical problems below:

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Discussion starter · #26 ·
The wiring diagrams are 'the from' & 'the to' between the components of the circuit for that particular fault code.
The wire colors also help identify the wire you are looking at.
You could check for continuity (a good connection) between beginning & end. Wires can be cut, pinched, corroded or rubbed-through. A bare spot can touch metal and 'ground' out (a short circuit). If they are cut or pulled-out, there can be no connection (an open circuit).
Somethings to look for in general for electrical problems below:

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Got it, thank you!! I'll help be on the lookout to search for corroded / bad / broken wires..

Before that I just wanted to back-track a little - saw a bunch of consistent drop / leaking from the pan... we had messed up a single spot on the bottom (picture below) & the transmission fluid was leaking on the driveway overnight; we opened it just now & will scrape off the maker & completely seal it fully this time!

Real quick before we do that... would like to ask if this "Detent" roller & spring is in the correct position? the picture i have is a lower view, (& also attached is your PDF of the 62te), looking at page 95 the gear teeth is all the way to the LEFT (but my lower view, it's Also all the way to the left, meaning RIGHT from aerial view)...

is this incorrect? it's the only way the roller would fit, & that metal teeth part is tough to move i'm not sure if it's capable of manually moving

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As long as you can feel the 'click' of each gear position and the PRNDL 'box' moves between the ranges when moving the shifter, you should be OK.
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Discussion starter · #28 ·
As long as you can feel the 'click' of each gear position and the PRNDL 'box' moves between the ranges when moving the shifter, you should be OK.
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Phew awesome, thank goodness! Yes, the gears do shift fine & the green square moves accordingly;)

...gonna go with brother to AutoZone for more Gasket Maker because you know, no car.:LOL:😰(y)

& then will do the voltage checks later!
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
As long as you can feel the 'click' of each gear position and the PRNDL 'box' moves between the ranges when moving the shifter, you should be OK.
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Goood evening 200_S_AWD!! 🥳 i have some news!! We had a mechanic friend come today (with their expensive super scanner) to help diagnose the problem.. (just wanted to share it here in case anyone else ever comes across this issue, too!(y))

Using his special scanner he was able to detect the shifting of the car as we changed the gears... it was going straight to Gear 3, skipped 1 & 2! Hence an issue with the TCM / TIPM / wiring (as the P 0882 code states).. but yes, that is the problem..

Tomorrow afternoon (if it stops stinking raining:rolleyes:) we will open the fuse / relay box & inspect everything, & then also see which pins are needed to test to see if we also need to replace the TCM/PCM box itself; (fingers-crossed & praying that it's not BOTH the tipm + the tcm/pcm. holy moly $$$)

In the meantime, i have to try and find which of the 4-boxes is the "transmission relay"... according to one of his researched papers, the "ground at pin 85" on the left side TCM/PCM box is the transmission control relay, but need to check which wire it goes to.. there are SO MANY WIRES 😰
 
Good progress. Main modules 'can' fail, but usually it is the smaller, stupid things like wiring, sensors, etc. Most troubleshooting procedures have you rule out the smaller, stupid stuff first, before even considering a module as a culprit.

I misspoke earlier, 3rd gear is the limp-in gear for the 6-speed automatic (62TE). 2nd gear is the limp-in gear for the 4-speed automatic (41TE).

If you were to start the car & unplug the transaxle, you should still have 3rd as a default forward gear. It is strictly a hydraulic gear actuated by the mechanical shift lever & valve body.
As I said before, all the electronics could fall off the car, but you would still have P, R, N & 3. The scan tool is skipping over 1st & 2nd & going right to 3rd because an 'error' is putting it into limp-in immediately.

You still have no forward motion of the car? Like it is in Neutral? I think that this can only be a hydraulic or mechanical issue with the transaxle itself. The electronics (TCM & TIPM) would have nothing to do with the loss of forward limp-in gears.

There is no actual transmission relay, it is all solid-state on a circuit board in the TIPM. The 4-relay box under the hood is for the ASD (auto-shutdown) & radiator fan relays.
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Welcome to the forum. I sent Alice a PM a couple of days ago & she hasn't responded. What year & engine? What has been tried so far?
 
p0882 fix! The non removable relay in the fuse box failed. You can replace the fuse box aka tipm with a used one with the same part number. Around $150 and No programming is needed. I'm a cheapo and good with wiring so I just bypassed it. When viewing your PCM/TCM the plug on the right is your TCM. In that harness pin 7 is a yellow with dark brown trace. It sends 12v out when you turn on the key. It will see a issue and remove power aka put it lnto limp mode. I cut the yellow brown wire, the end coming from the TCM I used to trigger a aftermarket relay. Taped off the other end that goes to the fuse box. I put the feed to the relay on a 25 amp fuse. The power out after the relay is triggered goes to the thick yellow orange wire. This wire can be found in the same TCM harness pin 26 27 28. All are connected so you only need to tap into one and it will supply power to everything else. Now when you turn on the key it will send out 12v on the yellow brown and not see a short and stay powered keeping your relay powered to allow the yellow orange wire to stay powered keeping it out of limp mode. Posting this for people like me who dig on forms for hours! Good luck!
 
p0882 fix! The non removable relay in the fuse box failed. You can replace the fuse box aka tipm with a used one with the same part number. Around $150 and No programming is needed. I'm a cheapo and good with wiring so I just bypassed it. When viewing your PCM/TCM the plug on the right is your TCM. In that harness pin 7 is a yellow with dark brown trace. It sends 12v out when you turn on the key. It will see a issue and remove power aka put it lnto limp mode. I cut the yellow brown wire, the end coming from the TCM I used to trigger a aftermarket relay. Taped off the other end that goes to the fuse box. I put the feed to the relay on a 25 amp fuse. The power out after the relay is triggered goes to the thick yellow orange wire. This wire can be found in the same TCM harness pin 26 27 28. All are connected so you only need to tap into one and it will supply power to everything else. Now when you turn on the key it will send out 12v on the yellow brown and not see a short and stay powered keeping your relay powered to allow the yellow orange wire to stay powered keeping it out of limp mode. Posting this for people like me who dig on forms for hours! Good luck!
Most wiring diagrams I found are wrong and show the yellow brown trigger is ground. It is not! It is a positive trigger.
 
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