[JerryCLunsford]

In post #14 the black connection with pink paint is a sensor not a ground unless I am mistaken.
There should be no problem going back to your original TIPM after installing the used one.

 

[chrysler200_diy]

Thank you Jerry for both of those points. With regard to going back to my original TIPM, I saw that decision made by a Youtuber (Jesse's World) who tried two used TIPMs on his 2008 Sebring, and found that they brought up codes, and reverted to his own TIPM. I was also concerned that both the donor TIPMs made dash lights flicker throughout the learning process. However, he didn't do the VIN write or SKIM Reset. Hence, my questions about the VIN and SKIM.

 

[JerryCLunsford]

I believe that the VIN is crucial in the module to get the car to run. I don’t know if the secret code for starting is stored in the TIPM. I know it is in the PCM, central gateway and screem moduly.

 

[chrysler200_diy]

VIN write for the car to run is important info. Thanks! If Secret Code (same as PIN?) is the 4 digit code, I got it using AppCar.

 

[200_S_AWD]

Chrysler engineering always warned us about swapping modules between cars. There was a risk in the module 'handshake' transferring the donor's key ID, etc. The result would be a no-start.
Worse was transferring a PCM or BCM from a car with the factory security system into a car without the security system. It would be a no-start & once a theft option is entered it can't be deleted, even at the dealer level. They figured that if we could, then the crooks could as well.
In these cases, both modules would be 'infected' with the security 'seed' & have to be sent back to Chrysler for reconfiguration. This fear has never left me.

Fortunately, the TIPM isn't the holder of the ID in your case. The instrument cluster (which is a module in itself) is. The TIPM just does the 'heavy lifting' of turning things on & off when it receives a signal from another 'smart' controller on the CAN bus with an actuation request.

The SCM communicates directly with the Instrument cluster (CCN or EMIC module) over a LIN bus, which can be though of as a 'sub-bus'. The CCN is the master of the LIN buses and puts the information out on the CAN bus.

You can try a TIPM, but I don't think that it will change anything at the SCM. The SCM angle sensor works on a 5 volt sensor supply from the CCN. The digital 'angle' information should be sent back to the CCN to be put out on the CAN bus for other modules to use.

Chrysler TIPMs Demystified: How To Reliably Trace Specific Vehicle Symptoms To TIPM Failure

TIPM, which stands for totally integrated power module, is the Chrysler nomenclature for the fuse and relay box, or electronic power relay center, in Chrysler vehicles produced since the early-to-mid-2000s. By Chrysler, we’re referring to the umbrella company for all vehicles marketed under any...

tipmrebuilders.com

 

[chrysler200_diy]

I am so grateful to you for such clear and detailed information 200_S_AWD! I had decided that I won't do anything before hearing from you, given your knowledge and experience. Hence, so pleased to get your input. Thanks for the helpful Extract.

Since TIPM is free of ID issues, the swap is okay to try out, given that there is no possibility of a no-start scenario. Hope I have got this right. In case I want to revert back to my original TIPM because the donor one has caused issues, will that process likely to go smoothly in the case of TIPM with PCM and BCM in the car responding without issues? I am okay with using Launch X431 to set right any codes.

The line in today's extract "The SCM is connected to a fused B(+) circuit and receives a path to ground at all times" made me go back to the diagram you (200_S_AWD) had shared in post # 5. In that diagram, to me it suggests that TIPM through F202 (pink line) sends Power to SAS. If correct, does that mean that TIPM could be the problem (other than wiring) because I was not getting any power in Pin 3 of Steering Control Module (in A909 circuit with Pink wire)? I haven't figured out the link between F202 and A909.

In addition to questions above, are there tests I could do before doing the TIPM swap?

As part of your post you have included MAKS TIPM REBUILDERS' intro on TIPMs. Would you recommend their TIPM Repair program? Would that be a straight-forward plug and play?

 

[200_S_AWD]

I just posted the link for MAKS because it gave good information about how a TIPM works. I have not done business with them.
I re-read last year's thread & this one to see where we've been & where we are now. I had forgotten a lot of the past discussion & to keep 'goose-chases' to a minimum, I had to refresh my memory.
This is a resource that I use for connectors & wire colors. Electrical information like this is difficult to find for newer cars:

https://connectorrepairkit.mopar.com/

Charm shows wiring diagrams for 2009 & earlier. While they are similar to a 2014, be aware that there may be differences.

Splices are usually dependable & a meter-check should confirm them. C114 is a break in the Pk/Wt wire to check the 12 volts from the TIPM. Look for terminal push-outs or the connector halves not latched securely.
Sorry for the mistake, the TIPM does supply 12 volts on F202 (Pk/Wt) to the steering angle sensor. A909 (Pk) is not related to the SAS & is likely for the cruise control buttons.
See iF +12v is coming out of the TIPM on F202 or stops somewhere along the path.

 

[chrysler200_diy]

A quick note of profound thanks to you, 200_S_AWD, for such exhaustive info and for the time you had taken to go through earlier addressing of the issue. I will take time during the weekend to look at the information carefully and follow the procedures suggested.