[200_S_AWD]

'Holding voltage' is a non-test for the battery's ability to actually 'do work'. A 'surface charge' can be misleading & must be drained off before an actual test is performed.

Batteries can 'sulfate' while sitting dormant for a period of time, even young batteries. Sometimes they can be restored, sometimes not. Slow-charging has a better chance of bringing a battery back from the dead.
A battery sitting on a concrete floor will not be ruined any more than a battery sitting in the car or on a wooden bench. This was a myth that I remember hearing from childhood:

https://www.cartalk.com/content/business-batteries-and-concrete-floors-needs-be

It is frustrating having to dump money into a vehicle that you are trying to sell or don't need. It is money that you'll probably not be able to recover.
The vehicle is worth far more if it starts & runs, than not.

You have to consider things like batteries & starters as 'maintenance' on a 12 year old car. A used starter can be bench tested before purchase & will probably be OK. Having to buy a new battery is just one of those things that we have to do every few years.

 

[ggoose]

Please consider purchasing a new battery or at least testing with a known good battery (12.4+ volts across the terminals) before replacing any parts. The voltage across the battery terminals does not indicate the ability of the battery to handle a load or spin a starter.

Had a 2 year old battery that showed good voltage but was turning over the starter slower than expected. Had it tested and the CCA was less than half of what it should have been. A new battery restored the starter operation.

 

[Ramirez32385]

It clicks even when just got wiring the Yl/Gy wire.

As for the battery, I thought it was a good battery. It was holding the voltage, and wasn't THAT old. Plus it had been sitting in storage on plastic, not hooked up to anything. I should have known that even unplugged the positive terminal would blacken almost overnight, despite me scrubbing it down with a baking soda paste and a wire brush. Which I know to be a symptom of overcharging. Plus I had no way of testing the CCA on the battery. So I guess I've got to fork out the money for a new battery before I can even go to P-A-P and start looking for a working starter. I know it may not be alot of money to most, but it is to me. THEN if/when I find a P-A-P starter and hopefully get the car to crank, now I've got to get the old gas out of the fuel system. The oil doesn't look bad, I seem to recall changing the oil and replacing the oil filter about a month or so before it went out on me so I'll probably put some lucas treatment in it.
I replaced the calipers, drums, and pads along with 3 tires and 2 wheels.

Also there's quite a few 1st gen 200s at my local P-A-P. Any other parts I should grab while I'm there?

Thanks again!

Hey, did you find a solution? I have the same issue currently.

 

[woolard.ag]

Hey, did you find a solution? I have the same issue currently.

I haven't replaced the starter yet, just can't afford it. Have you tried directly apply positive voltage to the Yl/Gy wire on the starter plug connected under the bottom side of the TIPM.

Make sure you do it with a good battery.
This is how I learned that atleast one of my problems was my starter was dead. As well as my battery actually two batteries were total crap.

 

[Ramirez32385]

I haven't replaced the starter yet, just can't afford it. Have you tried directly apply positive voltage to the Yl/Gy wire on the starter plug connected under the bottom side of the TIPM.

Make sure you do it with a good battery.
This is how I learned that atleast one of my problems was my starter was dead. As well as my battery actually two batteries were total crap.

Yes it does crank so I’m positive the starter is good

 

[200_S_AWD]

I have checked everything on this 200, I still can’t get it to crank, I don’t know how the dealer got it to start, what do y’all think?

I thought that it didn't crank in the other thread?
You mean that it just cranks over with the starter, but won't fire up to run?
A problem with the Yl/Gy wire would prevent it from clicking or cranking over.

 

[Ramirez32385]

I thought that it didn't crank in the other thread?
You mean that it just cranks over with the starter, but won't fire up to run?
A problem with the Yl/Gy wire would prevent it from clicking or cranking over.

it doesn’t crank, it only cranks if I power the starter directly, also the yellow/grey wire doesn’t seem to get the 12 volts

 

[200_S_AWD]

Then your starter is fine. The Yl/Gy wire may not get the 12 volts if the TIPM determines that it is unsafe to start the car. It probably isn't the TIPM at fault. The TIPM is only going by what it knows or by what it is being told.

Are you still getting the 'loss of communication' codes? See the Possible Causes below. It has to be one of these. If the TIPM has been replaced multiple times and you are still getting the 'loss of communication' codes, it is something besides the TIPM itself.

Do any other modules have fault codes like the WCM? What scan tool are you using?
We have to find out where to look. If we are just seeing the PCM codes, we may be getting only part of the story.

P0513-INVALID SKIM KEY
P0633-SKIM SECRET KEY NOT STORED IN PCM
P0850-PARK/NEUTRAL SWITCH PERFORMANCE
P1513-STARTER REQUEST SWITCH STUCK
P0615-STARTER CONTROL CIRCUIT/OPEN
B2122-IGNITION RUN CONTROL 1 CIRCUIT LOW
B212F-IGNITION RUN/ACC CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
B2148-IGNITION RUN CONTROL 2 CIRCUIT LOW
B2184-IGNITION UNLOCK RUN/START CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
B218B-IGNITION RUN/START 1 CONTROL CIRCUIT OVERCURRENT
B2206-CURRENT VIN MISSING/MISMATCH
B2215-FRONT CONTROL MODULE INTERNAL
B222C-VEHICLE CONFIGURATION NOT PROGRAMMED
P1277-STARTER CONTROL CIRCUIT 2 LOW
P1278-STARTER CONTROL CIRCUIT 2 HIGH
P1279-STARTER CONTROL CIRCUIT 2 OPEN
P127A-STARTER CONTROL CIRCUIT 2 OVERCURRENT
B1A28-ECM MISMATCH WITH SKIM
B1A29-SKIM BASESTATION MISMATCH
B1A24-KEY NOT PROGRAMMED
B1A25-INVALID KEY
B2101-IGNITION RUN/START INPUT LOW
B2102-IGNITION RUN/START INPUT HIGH
B210A-SYSTEM VOLTAGE LOW
B210B-SYSTEM VOLTAGE HIGH
B210D-BATTERY VOLTAGE LOW
B210E-BATTERY VOLTAGE HIGH
B2204-ECU CONFIGURATION MISMATCH
B2205-ORIGINAL VIN MISSING/MISMATCH
B2224-SKREEM INTERNAL
B2228-SKREEM INTERNAL - RKE RECEIVER
B2229-SKREEM INTERNAL - SKIM IMMOBILIZER

 

[Ramirez32385]

Then your starter is fine. The Yl/Gy wire may not get the 12 volts if the TIPM determines that it is unsafe to start the car. It probably isn't the TIPM at fault. The TIPM is only going by what it knows or by what it is being told.

Are you still getting the 'loss of communication' codes? See the Possible Causes below. It has to be one of these. If the TIPM has been replaced multiple times and you are still getting the 'loss of communication' codes, it is something besides the TIPM itself.

Do any other modules have fault codes like the WCM? What scan tool are you using?
We have to find out where to look. If we are just seeing the PCM codes, we may be getting only part of the story.

P0513-INVALID SKIM KEY
P0633-SKIM SECRET KEY NOT STORED IN PCM
P0850-PARK/NEUTRAL SWITCH PERFORMANCE
P1513-STARTER REQUEST SWITCH STUCK
P0615-STARTER CONTROL CIRCUIT/OPEN
B2122-IGNITION RUN CONTROL 1 CIRCUIT LOW
B212F-IGNITION RUN/ACC CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
B2148-IGNITION RUN CONTROL 2 CIRCUIT LOW
B2184-IGNITION UNLOCK RUN/START CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
B218B-IGNITION RUN/START 1 CONTROL CIRCUIT OVERCURRENT
B2206-CURRENT VIN MISSING/MISMATCH
B2215-FRONT CONTROL MODULE INTERNAL
B222C-VEHICLE CONFIGURATION NOT PROGRAMMED
P1277-STARTER CONTROL CIRCUIT 2 LOW
P1278-STARTER CONTROL CIRCUIT 2 HIGH
P1279-STARTER CONTROL CIRCUIT 2 OPEN
P127A-STARTER CONTROL CIRCUIT 2 OVERCURRENT
B1A28-ECM MISMATCH WITH SKIM
B1A29-SKIM BASESTATION MISMATCH
B1A24-KEY NOT PROGRAMMED
B1A25-INVALID KEY
B2101-IGNITION RUN/START INPUT LOW
B2102-IGNITION RUN/START INPUT HIGH
B210A-SYSTEM VOLTAGE LOW
B210B-SYSTEM VOLTAGE HIGH
B210D-BATTERY VOLTAGE LOW
B210E-BATTERY VOLTAGE HIGH
B2204-ECU CONFIGURATION MISMATCH
B2205-ORIGINAL VIN MISSING/MISMATCH
B2224-SKREEM INTERNAL
B2228-SKREEM INTERNAL - RKE RECEIVER
B2229-SKREEM INTERNAL - SKIM IMMOBILIZER

View attachment 67534
View attachment 67535

I’m using a snap on scanner, at the end I can’t find out why the yellow/grey wire doesn’t get 12 volts, I feel like the the key gives a signal to the ecm and then the ecm gives a signal to the TiPm but somewhere in between it gets lost what else should I check?

 

[JerryCLunsford]

Are there any current fault codes?
Will the scanner read all modules in the car?

 

[200_S_AWD]

I’m using a snap on scanner, at the end I can’t find out why the yellow/grey wire doesn’t get 12 volts, I feel like the the key gives a signal to the ecm and then the ecm gives a signal to the TiPm but somewhere in between it gets lost what else should I check?

Yes, basically the start/run request is passed along the bus network between the modules, starting with a valid key ID from the WCM. The PCM must see Park or Neutral. Voltages must be within a normal range. An 'OK to start' decision is made when all information is in.

The TIPM, PCM, WCM & CCN can all store useful fault codes which will help find out who is 'dropping the ball'. You have 'lost communication' fault codes that have to be solved. Lost communication may be your only problem & needs to be solved first.

What model Snap-On? Is it capable of reading the other modules? Can it test the bus?
Normally the Gy/Yl wire would have 12 volts to engage the starter. The reason that the 12 volts is being withheld is probably a logic decision because of the incomplete information due to the lost communication? You have ruled out wiring connection issues the best that you can.

With all the fault codes from the involved modules, we should be able to determine where we have to start next.
I think that after replacing the TIPM & not fixing the issue, we can safely assume that the TIPM itself is not the problem. The mechanic who got the car started that one time may know more than what you were told?

 

[Ramirez32385]

 

[200_S_AWD]

So the U113B is active & the other 3 are stored? If you erase the stored codes, do they come back after a short period.
All of these codes are 'lost communication' codes.
U113B has 4 possible causes. 3 of them may be wiring issues?

 

[Ramirez32385]

So the U113B is active & the other 3 are stored? If you erase the stored codes, do they come back after a short period.
All of these codes are 'lost communication' codes.
U113B has 4 possible causes. 3 of them may be wiring issues?
View attachment 67571
View attachment 67573
View attachment 67574

I get the c3 connector of the instrument cluster but where do I find the other connector/ switch bank? Is the switch bank like a sensor? If so where is it located?

 

[200_S_AWD]

The switch bank is in the instrument panel.

Here is a link for a 2013 200 manual, essentially the same as a 2014:

Free Service Manual for the 2013 Chrysler 200 L4-2.4L | Operation CHARM

Detailed repair manual for the 2013 Chrysler 200 L4-2.4L, including electrical diagrams, recommended bolt torques, and estimated labor times.

charm.li

I don't know if this is direct cause of the no-start, but the ESP is on CAN C & part of the ABS also.
We need to solve these 'loss of communication' codes. Since U113B is always active, it would make sense to start here.
The 'Possible Causes' are in order of likelihood, with the switch bank itself being the last suspect.

 

[Ramirez32385]

The switch bank is in the instrument panel.

Here is a link for a 2013 200 manual, essentially the same as a 2014:

Free Service Manual for the 2013 Chrysler 200 L4-2.4L | Operation CHARM

Detailed repair manual for the 2013 Chrysler 200 L4-2.4L, including electrical diagrams, recommended bolt torques, and estimated labor times.

charm.li

I don't know if this is direct cause of the no-start, but the ESP is on CAN C & part of the ABS also.
We need to solve these 'loss of communication' codes. Since U113B is always active, it would make sense to start here.
The 'Possible Causes' are in order of likelihood, with the switch bank itself being the last suspect.
View attachment 67576 View attachment 67577

Oh ok now i know why that code is active, i have that part disconnected since I took the radio out to be able to get to the WIn module out

 

[200_S_AWD]

That would do it. Without the ESP switch, that might cause a fault in the ABS as well.
Now we just have to solve the others. The SCM is on the LIN bus to the cluster as well. Then the cluster sends out the messages on the CAN C bus.

Refer to wiring diagrams & Possible causes in post #39 here:

https://www.200forums.com/threads/no-crank-no-start.67522/page-2

You may want to plug in the Switch Bank to continue, as I'm not sure what else it could knock out.

 

[Ramirez32385]

That would do it. Without the ESP switch, that might cause a fault in the ABS as well.
Now we just have to solve the others. The SCM is on the LIN bus to the cluster as well. Then the cluster sends out the messages on the CAN C bus.

Refer to wiring diagrams & Possible causes in post #39 here:

https://www.200forums.com/threads/no-crank-no-start.67522/page-2

You may want to plug in the Switch Bank to continue, as I'm not sure what else it could knock out.

Connected the switch bank and the code went away, now I still have U110a and u0121 on the TiMP and I still can’t get to crank, I feel like I’m still missing the 12 volts on grey/yellow wire, I’m really running out of ideas please help

 

[200_S_AWD]

If you are missing the 12 volt crank voltage on the Gy/Yl wire and a replacement TIPM has already been tried, the 'OK to Start' permission is probably being withheld because a Security or Unsafe condition.
Why? Can your Snap-On read ALL the modules? What model is your Snap-On tool?
Can you read the WCM? Is the TIPM configured with the correct VIN & key code?

 

[Ramirez32385]

If you are missing the 12 volt crank voltage on the Gy/Yl wire and a replacement TIPM has already been tried, the 'OK to Start' permission is probably being withheld because a Security or Unsafe condition.
Why? Can your Snap-On read ALL the modules? What model is your Snap-On tool?
Can you read the WCM? Is the TIPM configured with the correct VIN & key code?
View attachment 67580
View attachment 67581

It is not the newest snap on scanner but it reads all the modules, I think your right about something not allowing the 12 volts to be obtained, the TIMP is the original TIMP on the car, there are no other codes, but I feel the TIMP is not the issue, the other TIMP(vin programmed) did the same thing, so I don’t know what to do anymore, I don’t think those two codes mentioned would cause for the car not to start, all I know is the dealer tech got it started twice but I don’t know exactly what he did to do it