[SavioDuarte]

I see. You definitely have a motor problem. The electric motor has to work hard, and over time it gets weak, just like a power window that gets slower over time.

Although taking it apart and lubricating helps, the problem is not solved.

Since everything works now it's clear that the system is ok.

If you want to be safe and fix it once and for all, buy a new latch motor either on ebay or at the dealer and replace it.

Since you figured out how to take the latch plate out, then open the top and when it's completed, remove the plate and replace the motor.

I have done plenty and to this day haven't seen bad switches, only tired motors.

Hope it helps

 

[Steve Packard]

It was not a motor problem. It was more like a "stuck in place" problem. The arms had seized, probably because I didn't open the top all winter. What it needed was to be worked back and forth a few times and have some WD40. Then it was fine.

But I would caution anyone to not apply torque to that "star."

It absolutely looks like it is some kind of emergency manual mechanism for roof latching. If you manage to find a bit that fits on it (And I have to hand it to Chrysler engineers, they made it impossible to find a socket that will engage it) then you will get it to move and latch only when you've broken the worm gear.

My take away from this is that it is probably a good idea to operate the top a few times in the winter, because I don't think I have had it open since November, and in that time, the arms just seem to have gotten stuck. WD-40 is your friend!

 

[Jonathan F]

I am about to purchase a 2013 Chrysler 200 convertible soft top in Toronto. I stumbled upon this forum today and after reading the posts, I am weary of completing the sale. The car needs a blend actuator. Other than that, everything works as it should, including the top. The car has 108,000km (67,108 miles for my American friends). The top has a minor fray issue starting at the front (size of a pencil eraser).

My concern is if I am somewhere with the top down and it won't close. Can I manually put the top up so that I can drive? I put in a call to Savio from this forum, as he appears to be genuine and knows his stuff.

Should I consider not buying this car? I have always wanted a convertible, but this forum is making me second guess my desire.

 

[ggoose]

Buy the convertible; you will regret it if you don't. As my neighbor's mom once said "everyone needs to own a convertible at least once".

This forum is a small, but devoted, subset of all 200 owners and even smaller subset of convertible owners, here to help you enjoy your 200. At 108,000km, your car is still new in my book, but then again I drive my convertibles (on my third) to over 240,000 miles (385,000km). My current vert, 2014, has 'only' 52,000 miles on it. There were over 30,000 200 convertibles produced with the same top mechanics since 2008. There are 14,000 members here, fewer with convertibles.

Yes, there is a procedure to force the top to close. The likelihood of you getting a flat tire with an unusable spare tire is higher, in my estimation, than your top not closing. I have been driving convertibles for decades and never once concerned myself about the top not closing (sunburn yes, top no).

Salvio knows his stuff but there is a forum dedicated to sebring/200 convertibles that really know their stuff, sebringclub.net. They know more about these convertible tops than most any dealer.

Bottom line, fear not, just buy it and enjoy the ride.

 

[Jonathan F]

Buy the convertible; you will regret it if you don't. As my neighbor's mom once said "everyone needs to own a convertible at least once".

This forum is a small, but devoted, subset of all 200 owners and even smaller subset of convertible owners, here to help you enjoy your 200. At 108,000km, your car is still new in my book, but then again I drive my convertibles (on my third) to over 240,000 miles (385,000km). My current vert, 2014, has 'only' 52,000 miles on it. There were over 30,000 200 convertibles produced with the same top mechanics since 2008. There are 14,000 members here, fewer with convertibles.

Yes, there is a procedure to force the top to close. The likelihood of you getting a flat tire with an unusable spare tire is higher, in my estimation, than your top not closing. I have been driving convertibles for decades and never once concerned myself about the top not closing (sunburn yes, top no).

Salvio knows his stuff but there is a forum dedicated to sebring/200 convertibles that really know their stuff, sebringclub.net. They know more about these convertible tops than most any dealer.

Bottom line, fear not, just buy it and enjoy the ride.

Thanks for the advice and the education! I talked to Savio 30 minutes ago and he mentioned a few things that could potentially happen, but said the same thing you are saying. I'm picking the car up tomorrow. My wife thinks I'm coming home with a CRV lol! We'll see how that works out!

 

[JDJ]

I'm writing again from a computer, maybe this time there will be an IP address.

Anyways, I am pretty sure I got it figured out what the problem is with the convertible top for the latter sebrings and 200.

If anyone needs help free of charge, please contact me and I will be of assistance.

Savio,
I would like to discuss this over the phone with you. which dealership are you at?

 

[ggoose]

If you would, please share your findings here. This forum exists to help others enjoy their 200 and offers tips for problem-solving and maintenance.

 

[SavioDuarte]

My dealership's name is Duarte Auto Center.

Please call me 407-744-1437

The convertible top usually malfunctions because of the electric motor that power the top header latch.

There have been other issues reported in this forum, but the most common is the latch motor.

It's complicated to explain how to test it and replace it, I have written up on prior message, but it's much easier explained on a phone call.

I am a car dealer in Orlando Florida and I don't mind helping others, I don't charge anything and have repaired vehicles from people that live close by and bring it to me in person.

I do it because I use the internet/forums to help with car problems on my dealership and I believe in paying it forward.

This convertible top issue is a personal one for me as I feel like I was taken advantage off by the Chrysler dealership and after finding the solution for the problem, vowed to help others in the same situation.

 

[Flman594]

Hi, I'm a dealer in Orlando Florida and just had 2 of those cars come in with top problems.

I sent the hard top to Chrysler dealer and after paying $135 to be told they ran tests and it all failed.

They wanted another $270 then if no luck another $400 also diagnose the problem.

I got fed up and took it back.

I unbolted the headed plate and did several tests myself, which took less than 1 hour ($135) they charged me at the dealer.

Bottom line, the problem is the motor that powers the latch that clamps down the top to the windshield frame.

Motor gets week and can power it all the way so that the switch sees it latched.

I checked the second soft top 200 and the problem was the same.

I found out by removing the motor and operating the latches manually and everything worked perfectly.

Top opens and closes flawlessly.

Chrysler dealerships don't know anything and charge a lot for no work performed.

Any one needing help with this, let me know. I can help.

I need help. I know this is a old thread but please help. My enail is flman594@gmail.com

 

[200_S_AWD]

This thread continues on. It would be greatly appreciated if you'd share your symptoms, diagnosis and repairs for others who might find this info useful, now and in the future.
I would like this thread to stand as an open document on Sebring/200 convertible top problems and fixes. Thanks. ☺

 

[SavioDuarte]

I understand your concern. Usually the top starts the open or closure procedure and will throw a malfunction.

As I stated before, it's usually caused by the latch motor.

I have described once prior on this thread the fix and the procedure to find the problem and the procedure to test the whole mechanism before you spend any money buying parts.

It is difficult to explain in writing, it gets confusing and it's almost impossible to read and perform the task.

When I offered my personal cellphone in this thread, putting myself on a predicament by doing so, I did it because experience has taught me that when the owner is in a conversation with me, I can point the steps as they perform it, I can walk them thru it easier.

I don't do it to hide the solution, the solution of 95% of the Sebring/200 convertible top problems IS the replacement of the latch motor.

The problem is to make access to it, test it and replace it.

I offered my help in this site because as a car dealer I have used the internet to find solutions for problems I encounter daily on my business, and thought it's good for my Karma to pay it forward helping others with a problem I know the solution to.

I have help several owners and every time it makes me happy that another Sebring/200 owner is back enjoying their convertible as they should.

As stated before, I don't charge anything, I don't take money from nobody. Nothing!!!!
Thankfully by the grace of God I don't need money and I don't need to charge anybody.

If anybody on this thread has helped someone out of their hearts without asking for anything in return, refusing anything in return, just because of the great feeling of BEING ABLE to help someone when they feel helpless, then those will understand why I do it.

Thankfully my wife understands and supports.

 

[Paul - Grande Prairie]

Just a quick aside on convertible issues - 3 times now, for unknown reasons, the top will not "complete", so the windows will not close and the trunk & remote start won't operate from key fob.
The first time, I went to dealer and paid 200 bucks for a re-set.
The next two times, I just cycled the roof, shut off ignition, and waited...
It eventually did reset and all is good. I'm tired of it, though...

 

[SavioDuarte]

As I stated before, this is a latch motor problem.

The electric motor is getting tired and will struggle to move header mechanism.

 

[ggoose]

I differ with SavioDuarte claiming that 95% of top malfunctions is due to the latch motor.

A common problem area is the wires breaking in the harness by the right trunk hinge due to flexing when the trunk is opened/closed.

All top malfunctions will set a dtc (diagnostic trouble code) in the PTCM (power top control module). This code(s) will assist greatly in diagnosing and determining what the problem is. Being able to pull these codes is beneficial.

I appreciate the fact that SavioDuarte is willing to share his personal time to trouble-shoot latch motor problems. I personally would appreciate a written procedure that can be posted and referenced by myself and others having a top malfunction to determine where the problem may be and not need to call someone.

 

[SavioDuarte]

I differ with SavioDuarte claiming that 95% of top malfunctions is due to the latch motor.

A common problem area is the wires breaking in the harness by the right trunk hinge due to flexing when the trunk is opened/closed.

All top malfunctions will set a dtc (diagnostic trouble code) in the PTCM (power top control module). This code(s) will assist greatly in diagnosing and determining what the problem is. Being able to pull these codes is beneficial.

I appreciate the fact that SavioDuarte is willing to share his personal time to trouble-shoot latch motor problems. I personally would appreciate a written procedure that can be posted and referenced by myself and others having a top malfunction to determine where the problem may be and not need to call someone.

I would like to know how many convertibles have you diagnosed with trunk wiring issues? How many have you diagnosed with top latch issues?

I have fixed over 20 of these convertibles and not once have I run into one with wiring issues.

Reason why I left 5% out.

 

[ggoose]

Convertible Top

* Chrysler Sebring / 200 Convertible Club *-Items related to the convertible top. Covers all Sebring Convertible generations.

sebringclub.net

 

[SavioDuarte]

I don't claim to know it all, guaranteed there have been issues with the trunk harness.

I have never come across one myself, but they do happen.

I do have experience with the top header switches and motor, with that I can help.

Or rather could. It seems that the offering of my amateur FREE help has bothered some members, therefore I will leave this thread and let the professional members here help the ones in need.

Thank you

 

[fltru103]

I don't claim to know it all, guaranteed there have been issues with the trunk harness.

I have never come across one myself, but they do happen.

I do have experience with the top header switches and motor, with that I can help.

Or rather could. It seems that the offering of my amateur FREE help has bothered some members, therefore I will leave this thread and let the professional members here help the ones in need.

Thank you

I believe all comments are welcome here.
Please continue to check in and help those that are looking for suggestions and information.
The car community needs more people willing to reach out and lend that hand to help.
Thanks for visiting and helping.

 

[don250r]

hmm, after having experienced this myself on a buddy's 2008 sebring, i hooked up my trusty Ancel FX6000.
Guess which codes the power top control module showed. Latch and unlatch performance(most likely the latching motor).
Ill be giving Savio a call as soon as the car gets back here.

 

[200_S_AWD]

Possible PTCM (power top control module) fault codes. Note that these codes are not OBD2 fault codes and need a capable scan tool to read body codes.
B=body (BCM, ORC, MIC, CCN, WCM, etc)
P=powertrain (PCM, TCM, etc)
C=chassis (ABS, EPS,etc)
U=communication bus network (CAN, PCI, etc)

• B18D1-CONVERTIBLE TOP RETRACTED POSITION SENSOR CIRCUIT PERFORMANCE
• B18D2-CONVERTIBLE TOP RETRACTED POSITION SENSOR CIRCUIT LOW
• B1929-LEFT REAR WINDOW CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN OR HARDWARE THERMO PROTECTION ACTIVE
• B192D-RIGHT REAR WINDOW CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN OR HARDWARE THERMO PROTECTION ACTIVE
• B210A-SYSTEM VOLTAGE LOW
• B210B-SYSTEM VOLTAGE HIGH
• B210D-BATTERY VOLTAGE LOW
• B210E-BATTERY VOLTAGE HIGH
• B21C1-PTCM LEFT WINDOW/HEADER POWER SUPPLY CIRCUIT
• B21C2-PTCM LEFT WINDOW/HEADER MOTOR GROUND CIRCUIT
• B21C3-PTCM RIGHT WINDOW/TONNEAU POWER SUPPLY CIRCUIT
• B21C4-PTCM RIGHT WINDOW/TONNEAU MOTOR GROUND CIRCUIT
• B21C5-PUMP POWER SUPPLY CIRCUIT
• B21C6-PUMP GROUND CIRCUIT
• B2278-POWER TOP CONTROL MODULE INTERNAL
• B235A-PRODUCTION MODE
• B2515-REAR WINDOW POSITION SENSOR SUPPLY CIRCUIT LOW
• B2517-LEFT REAR WINDOW POSITION SENSOR 1 CIRCUIT PERFORMANCE
• B2518-LEFT REAR WINDOW POSITION SENSOR 2 CIRCUIT PERFORMANCE
• B2519-RIGHT REAR WINDOW POSITION SENSOR 1 CIRCUIT PERFORMANCE
• B251A-RIGHT REAR WINDOW POSITION SENSOR 2 CIRCUIT PERFORMANCE
• B251B-LEFT REAR WINDOW - INCORRECT DIRECTION
• B251C-RIGHT REAR WINDOW - INCORRECT DIRECTION
• B2520-CONVERTIBLE TOP HEADER LATCH CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN OR HARDWARE THERMO PROTECTION ACTIVE
• B2528-TONNEAU COVER CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN OR HARDWARE THERMO PROTECTION ACTIVE
• B2529-DECKLID RELEASE CONTROL CIRCUIT PERFORMANCE
• B252A-DECKLID RELEASE CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
• B2530-CONVERTIBLE TOP CONTROL CIRCUIT 1 OPEN
• B2534-CONVERTIBLE TOP CONTROL CIRCUIT 2 OPEN
• B2539-CONVERTIBLE TOP HEADER LATCH/UNLATCH LIMIT SWITCH CORRELATION
• B253A-CONVERTIBLE TOP HEADER LATCH LIMIT SWITCH PERFORMANCE
• B253B-CONVERTIBLE TOP HEADER LATCH LIMIT SWITCH CIRCUIT LOW
• B253D-CONVERTIBLE TOP HEADER UNLATCH LIMIT SWITCH PERFORMANCE
• B253E-CONVERTIBLE TOP HEADER UNLATCH LIMIT SWITCH CIRCUIT LOW
• B2540-CONVERTIBLE TOP SENSE LIMIT SWITCH/CONVERTIBLE TOP POSITION SENSOR CORRELATION
• B2541-CONVERTIBLE TOP SENSE LIMIT SWITCH PERFORMANCE
• B2542-CONVERTIBLE TOP SENSE LIMIT SWITCH CIRCUIT LOW
• B2544-DECKLID LATCH LIMIT SWITCH/DECKLID POSITION SENSOR CORRELATION
• B2545-DECKLID LATCH LIMIT SWITCH PERFORMANCE
• B2546-DECKLID LATCH LIMIT SWITCH CIRCUIT LOW
• B2548-TONNEAU RETRACT/EXTEND LIMIT SWITCH CORRELATION
• B2549-TONNEAU RETRACT LIMIT SWITCH PERFORMANCE
• B254A-TONNEAU RETRACTED LIMIT SWITCH CIRCUIT LOW
• B254C-TONNEAU EXTEND LIMIT SWITCH PERFORMANCE
• B254D-TONNEAU EXTEND LIMIT SWITCH CIRCUIT LOW
• B254F-CONVERTIBLE TOP PANEL LATCH/PANEL UNLATCH LIMIT SWITCH CORRELATION
• B2550-CONVERTIBLE TOP PANEL LATCH LIMIT SWITCH PERFORMANCE
• B2551-CONVERTIBLE TOP PANEL LATCH LIMIT SWITCH CIRCUIT LOW
• B2553-CONVERTIBLE TOP PANEL UNLATCH LIMIT SWITCH PERFORMANCE
• B2554-CONVERTIBLE TOP PANEL UNLATCH LIMIT SWITCH CIRCUIT LOW
• B255D-DECKLID OPEN POSITION SENSOR CIRCUIT PERFORMANCE
• B255E-DECKLID OPEN POSITION SENSOR CIRCUIT LOW
• B2579-CONVERTIBLE TOP SWITCH CIRCUIT PERFORMANCE
• B257A-CONVERTIBLE TOP SWITCH CIRCUIT LOW
• U0020-CAN B BUS OFF PERFORMANCE